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Five Ten Anasazi Verde
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By Chris Graham
From Bartlett, NH
Sep 22, 2011
portrait <br />

thinking about getting a pair of these to replace my galileos. I like that they are lace ups and have the Onyyx Rubber. Any comments out there on how they perform, etc..?

Thanks
Chris


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By Darren Mabe
From Flagstaff, AZ
Sep 22, 2011
wham bam hand jam. Wrapping up the final moves of Twist of Fate, Oak Creek Canyon. <br /> <br />photo: Blake McCord

awesomely


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By rock_fencer
From Columbia, SC
Sep 22, 2011
Myself placing a a blue/yellow offset MC to protect between Bolt 2/3 just post crux . <br /> <br />Picture credit goes to eric Singleton, and many thanks to Josh Bagget for the great belay.

they work well edging and smearing, i find that the toe is too voluminous for anythign less than thin hand cracks. Also the standard heel issues apply. The black fabric covering the leather around the laces gets chewed up easily but the shoe is no worse for wear. I've had mine for 2+ years and 1 resole.

T


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By Chris Graham
From Bartlett, NH
Sep 22, 2011
portrait <br />

thanks guys. Good smearing and sensitivity on steep granite slabs? The galileos stick like glue and edge nicely, but they are not the most sensitive. I think the verdes would be a good fit for what I am looking for...all day trad, thin cracks, slab and some edging.


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By Ryan Williams
Administrator
From London (sort of)
Sep 22, 2011
El Chorro

They are very similar to the Galileos. As far as rubber goes, I don't notice a difference between the Onyxx and the C4, but some people do. Maybe one is more durable than the other but I don't pay that much attention... it's all freakin' sticky. My Galileos have Onyxx, so do the Verde's. The Anasazi Blanco still comes w/ the C4.

The Galileos are a bit stiffer than the Anasazis, which is why I bought them. I wanted a shoe that would edge well, have sensitivity and also be stiff and supportive for cracks. I went a half size up from my Anasazis for an all day type of shoe that supports my foot, isn't too tight, but still edges well. The heal is also less aggressive on the Galileo than the Anasazi, so I can wear a larger size and still not have dead space back there.

The Verde's are the stiffest among the Anasazi line (not as stiff as the Galileo), and the slingshot heal is the least aggressive, so they are still a descent choice for a supportive and comfy technical shoe and a good intro to the Anasazi heal. But the heal is more aggressive than the Galileo, meaning you need to size them small in order to avoid dead space, and the sling shot will force your toes into the front of the shoe. I'd say the heal could be the deal breaker, because if you don't have the right shaped heal and aren't happy with the slingshot, you'll either have dead space or be uncomfortable.

I've had Galileos, Verdes and VCSs all resoled more than once and they climb even better than when brand new.


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By Marc R
From Boulder, CO
Sep 22, 2011
Dog Safety

the differences between onyx and c4 rubber are minimal. At least I and several people i have talked with (including a guy a rock and resole in boulder) cant really tell the difference. Either way, stealth rubber is my favorite of any i have climbed on.


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By Ryan Williams
Administrator
From London (sort of)
Sep 22, 2011
El Chorro

Chris Graham wrote:
thanks guys. Good smearing and sensitivity on steep granite slabs? The galileos stick like glue and edge nicely, but they are not the most sensitive. I think the verdes would be a good fit for what I am looking for...all day trad, thin cracks, slab and some edging.


IF you're happy with the fit, I think that you'll like the Verdes. They are more sensitive, but just be careful thinking you'll be slabbing in them. I climbed in them at City of Rocks and most of the time they were perfect but on a few slabby routes my heals were in pain. I have two pair of Verdes and was wearing the larger of the two at the City.

PS I have some Verdes for sale, size 10. They are used, but I'm willing to let 'em go for cheap if you're wanting to try some out w/o spending a shit ton. Ryan.Tyler.Williams@gmail.com


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By Red
From Arizona
Sep 22, 2011
Cobra Kai

They work great. The white anasazi lace-ups are even better.


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By Chris Graham
From Bartlett, NH
Sep 22, 2011
portrait <br />

Hey Ryan...thanks for the tips, and I am wearing your 10.5 Verdes right now. THanks for the quick shipping. I will try to get these out this weekend. They are a wee bit tight, but they should relax a bit after I get a few pitches under my belt. If I like them, I will pony up for a new pair. Thanks man


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By Old and Busted
From Centennial, CO
Sep 22, 2011
Stabby

Mine are sloppy as hell in the heel, but aside from that I'm very pleased. I thought the original Onyx lasted a tad longer than C4 does.


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By Ryan Williams
Administrator
From London (sort of)
Sep 22, 2011
El Chorro

Chris Graham wrote:
Hey Ryan...thanks for the tips, and I am wearing your 10.5 Verdes right now. THanks for the quick shipping. I will try to get these out this weekend. They are a wee bit tight, but they should relax a bit after I get a few pitches under my belt. If I like them, I will pony up for a new pair. Thanks man


Ha, should have recognized the name. Relax is the right word for sure. They will not stretch much, but when I bought my 10's they were TIGHT, and now I can wear them for a long time. I wore the 10's at the city, the 10'5's are just a bit large for me. Hope you enjoy them!


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By Chris Graham
From Bartlett, NH
Sep 23, 2011
portrait <br />

They fit pretty nice. Gave them a scrub, dried them out a bit and wore them around the house to try to get them to stretch a bit. They fit nice, feel more precise than my galileos, but I am definitely not a fan of the heel. I had heard that 5.10 made some improvements in the heel department over the pinkos...but I see very little in the verdes (still a great deal of dead space). I don't plan on heel hooking or anything like that with them so no worries, but the rand does tend to dig into the achilles a bit. I think a more shallow heel with less slingshot would have made these things perfect.

Looking forward to getting them out on "Rough Boys" this weekend.


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By Chris Graham
From Bartlett, NH
Sep 27, 2011
portrait <br />

Just sent them out to Rock and Resole for some new rubber...the edges were just too rounded to hold, but I do like the fit and feel of the shoes.


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