Five Point to a Fist Crag Rock Climbing
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Elevation: | 7,000 ft |
GPS: |
40.421, -105.3569 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
Page Views: | 3,567 total · 18/month |
Shared By: | Tymothe Meskel on Oct 10, 2007 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Access Issue: Access issue - Monastery, Cedar Park, Combat Rock, etc. - open since 2023
Details
Update: per Bruce Hildenbrand: the area has been open since 2023.
Per JF M: as of May 2022, there is no signage on-site, nor information on the USFS webpage for the Cameron Peak Fire (nor on their published map of closures) that indicates the area is closed.
Per Bruce Hildenbrand: it appears that the Forest Service has closed access to all the climbing areas accessed via Storm Mountain Road (Monastery, Cedar Park, Combat Rock, etc.) until they can clear all the dangerous dead trees from the Cameron Peak fire.
I worked this issue with Eric Murdock at the AF, and it looks like the Forest Service picked Devil's Gulch Road as the southern boundary even though all the climbing areas on MP.com were not burned.
Per JF M: as of May 2022, there is no signage on-site, nor information on the USFS webpage for the Cameron Peak Fire (nor on their published map of closures) that indicates the area is closed.
Per Bruce Hildenbrand: it appears that the Forest Service has closed access to all the climbing areas accessed via Storm Mountain Road (Monastery, Cedar Park, Combat Rock, etc.) until they can clear all the dangerous dead trees from the Cameron Peak fire.
I worked this issue with Eric Murdock at the AF, and it looks like the Forest Service picked Devil's Gulch Road as the southern boundary even though all the climbing areas on MP.com were not burned.
Description
Five Point to a Fist has no know access issues. This is a old area that myself and my partner Travis "Buzz" Thompson put an anchor on early this year. There are five climbs that end in one 2-bolt anchor. On the left Allen has put a couple of slings on a tree but I'm not sure of the grade.
Five Points ranges from a not so friendly 5.6 to a stellar 5.9. All climbs are trad. Most climbs use a standard rack (few nuts and cams), but there is a gnarly piece of off-width to the far left. So if you plan on that, bring the off-width “bear clubbers”.
I took a nasty fall on this one, along with the 350 lbs. rock I was holding on to. The rock is split in half laying on the short trail as you approach, so check it out.
That being said, all the routes were mostly cleaned and should be good to go, but take care because it is the BTC and rock does have the tendency to move unannounced.
Cheers and Climb on!
Note: If you are planning to hit Linger Longer rock as well, please be conscious that Linger Longer is on private land. The guy that owns it is super cool and is ok with smart, courteous climbers.
P.S. Allen, we heard you were going to fix the bolt ladder on Linger Longer and do a little paint job; cheers to you for keeping the BTC from turning into a fanatically bolted area!
Five Points ranges from a not so friendly 5.6 to a stellar 5.9. All climbs are trad. Most climbs use a standard rack (few nuts and cams), but there is a gnarly piece of off-width to the far left. So if you plan on that, bring the off-width “bear clubbers”.
I took a nasty fall on this one, along with the 350 lbs. rock I was holding on to. The rock is split in half laying on the short trail as you approach, so check it out.
That being said, all the routes were mostly cleaned and should be good to go, but take care because it is the BTC and rock does have the tendency to move unannounced.
Cheers and Climb on!
Note: If you are planning to hit Linger Longer rock as well, please be conscious that Linger Longer is on private land. The guy that owns it is super cool and is ok with smart, courteous climbers.
P.S. Allen, we heard you were going to fix the bolt ladder on Linger Longer and do a little paint job; cheers to you for keeping the BTC from turning into a fanatically bolted area!
Getting There
US Highway 34 west of Drake about 1.5 miles. 1 km west of Linger Longer Rock, in between Drake and Ann's Rock (AKA Jug Dome). It's located on the North side of road. There is a large parking area on the south side of the road.
L->R:
A. Ring Finger, 6 PG-13, 70', gear.
B. Middle Finger, 9, 1p, 70', gear.
C. Pointer Finger, 7, 1p, 70', gear.
B. Middle Finger, 9, 1p, 70', gear.
C. Pointer Finger, 7, 1p, 70', gear.
Weather Averages
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