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Five Pack 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 500', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: 1977 Joe Herbst, Tom Kaufman, Larry Hamilton, Scott Woodruff, Steve Allen
Page Views: 3,069
Submitted By: Larry DeAngelo on Jan 1, 2005

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (12)
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Steve Allen, belayed by Joe Herbst, completes the ...

Description 

This excellent route climbs the crack system on the right side of the Bottle.

Pitch 1: Climb up to a short chimney and follow it to the large ledge.

Pitch 2: Move to the right end of the ledge and climb straight up the crack system, which becomes an offwidth, followed by a beautiful handcrack.

Pitch 3: Climb up the dihedral a ways, then move left to avoid the large roof. Just above the roof, climb back right to gain the main dihedral on the right side of the Bottle. (Do not continue straight up the varnished crack above- it is a different route.) It may be desirable to belay just above the roof and then do a very short (10-15 foot) traverse to the right and set up a new belay in the dihedral.

Pitch 4: Go straight up the dihedral until it starts to lean right, then make a few face moves before regaining the jamcrack at the lip of the roof .

The main descent options are to either rappel Edge of the Sun via 3 long rappels from bolted stations, or continue to the top of the Magic Triangle via a few 5.5 pitches and go down the Crabby Appleton gully with a few short rappels.

Protection 

Normal rack including at least one big cam (number 4 Camalot or bigger).


Photos of Five Pack Slideshow Add Photo
Arriving at the pitch 2 belay.
Arriving at the pitch 2 belay.
Routes on the Bottle:  A) Bottle Bill,  B) Five Pack,  C) Texas Longneck,  D) Edge of the Sun
BETA PHOTO: Routes on the Bottle: A) Bottle Bill, B) Five Pa...
"You want me to do what?!"  Sport climber Nate contemplates a fist jam on the final jamcrack of Five Pack.
"You want me to do what?!" Sport climber Nate con...
Barely hanging on while searching for a comfortable enough position to remove the last piece.
Barely hanging on while searching for a comfortabl...
Brett working the crux and gaining the corner, thanks to fist jams and placing the #4 Camalot for protection.
Brett working the crux and gaining the corner, tha...
Approaching the end of the beautiful jamcrack on pitch 2 of Five Pack
Approaching the end of the beautiful jamcrack on p...
A look up at the 4th pitch corner
BETA PHOTO: A look up at the 4th pitch corner
Me scoping out the final moves before attempting the corner
Me scoping out the final moves before attempting t...
Brett rounding the corner after traversing the roof and nearing the 3rd pitch belay
Brett rounding the corner after traversing the roo...
The base of pitch 1.
The base of pitch 1.
Brett making his way up the face moves just prior to the corner finish
Brett making his way up the face moves just prior ...
Pitch 2 stembox.
Pitch 2 stembox.

Comments on Five Pack Add Comment
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By L. Hamilton
Mar 1, 2005

Historical note: The name "Bottle Bill," a Joe Herbst pun, alludes to a beverage-container deposit law that was being debated in Nevada at the time -- and of course also to the formation's bottle-like shape. "Five Pack" connected this theme to the 5-man FA party.
By jblackattack
From: las vegas, nv
Oct 23, 2008

Did this route yesterday and found it to be a very fun route. Definitely advisable to stay with in the cracks when possible. Found lots of loose friable rock just outside the cracks on the first 3 pitches which keeps you honest for sure. 4th pitch was great with the roof and final lay back capping it all off
By Andy Hansen
From: Longmont, Colorado
Feb 9, 2012
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

If the 4th pitch were in a single pitch environment it would be a 4-star classic. The very fluid movement of 5.8 crack and face climbing culminates with a burly and extremely pleasing finish. Some of the best 5.10 climbing, although brief, I have done in RR.
By Cultivating Mass
Feb 10, 2012

Any comments on the Edge of the Sun raps, Andy? I had theorized that the anchors might need some work.....

Jblack, great photos! Makes me want to jump on this thing!
By Andy Hansen
From: Longmont, Colorado
Feb 10, 2012
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Well, yes, some observations about the anchors on Edge of the Sun: the top anchors' bolts look okay but older SMC anchors always kind of tweak me out. The top anchors could use some chains. Gina and I did a full 200 foot rap to a ledge that is the 1st pitch belay for Edge of the Sun. Although this isn't the recommended rap it worked out OK for us... but we had to come totally off rappel and walk about 10 feet to the anchors. The reason why we ended up here and not at the top of the 2nd pitch of Edge of the Sun was because I failed to locate those anchors (hidden?). The anchor at the 1st pitch belay of Edge of the Sun is in some serious need of replacement. The 3rd (if rappelled the prescribed way that is west into the Crabby Appleton gully) rappel anchor looks to be in good condition. It'd be worth it to go up there and take a look for yourself though.
By Cultivating Mass
Feb 13, 2012

Will probably just do em ground up with a couple of volunteers to help schlep all the replacement gear, thanks for the info. Had thought maybe just some new webbing, sounds like actual work, though.
By sqwirll
From: Las Vegas
Apr 23, 2012
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

I liked this route a lot. You can skip the mediocre 1st pitch by 3rd classing in from the left. Save some hand size cams for belay at the top of the second pitch. A #5 C4 camalot is handy for protecting the wide bit on pitch 2.

@Andy- the second pitch anchors of Edge of The Sun are about 120' down from the top. You have to work west a bit to get to them, but they're easy to see. They're visible on the arete after you pull the roof on pitch 3.