All Locations > Nevada > Southern Nevada > Red Rocks > Pine Creek Canyon > Magic Mountain > N Face

Five Pack

Name: Five Pack
Rating: 2.7

5.10b YDS 6a+ French 19 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British

Routes in North Face

L › R R › L A › Z

	Advanced Placement T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Andy & Jason's Mediocre Adventure T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Birthday Party T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
	Bottle Bill T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Brain Drain T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Bros Before Holes T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Cartwright Corner T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Chocolate Flakes T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Community Party Chimney T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Community Pillar T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Dark and Long T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Edge of the Sun T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Fido the Dragon T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Five and Dime T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Five Pack T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Honeycomb Chimney T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Magic Triangle T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
	Masquerade T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Midnight Oil T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
	Saucerful of Secrets T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
	Small Purchase T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
	Texas Longneck T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Unknown T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

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Type:	Trad, 500 ft (152 m), 4 pitches, Grade II
GPS:	36.12126, -115.49023
FA:	1977 Joe Herbst, Tom Kaufman, Larry Hamilton, Scott Woodruff, Steve Allen
Page Views:	5,840 total · 22/month
Shared By:	Larry DeAngelo on Dec 31, 2004
Admins:	Luke EF, Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen Page Updates (admin only)

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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Access Issue: IMPORTANT notes on Wet Rock and Human Waste Details

WET ROCK: The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS DURING OR AFTER RAIN. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery bone-dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby.

HUMAN WASTE: Human waste is a major issue plaguing the area. The Southern Nevada Climbers Coalition (SNCC) works to provide "wag bags" free of charge in several locations: Black Velvet Canyon, The Hamlet, Kraft Mountain Area, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor. These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out. Consider bringing one to be part of your daily kit no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly. Do not throw them in the toilets at the parking areas.

See https://www.southernnevadaclimbers.org/wag-bags for more information on the program.

Description

This excellent route climbs the crack system on the right side of the Bottle.

Pitch 1: Climb up to a short chimney and follow it to the large ledge.

Pitch 2: Move to the right end of the ledge and climb straight up the crack system, which becomes an offwidth, followed by a beautiful handcrack.

Pitch 3: Climb up the dihedral a ways, then move left to avoid the large roof. Just above the roof, climb back right to gain the main dihedral on the right side of the Bottle. (Do not continue straight up the varnished crack above- it is a different route.) It may be desirable to belay just above the roof and then do a very short (10-15 foot) traverse to the right and set up a new belay in the dihedral.

Pitch 4: Go straight up the dihedral until it starts to lean right, then make a few face moves before regaining the jamcrack at the lip of the roof .

The main descent options are to either rappel Edge of the Sun via 3 long rappels from bolted stations, or continue to the top of the Magic Triangle formation via a few 5.5 pitches and go down the Crabby Appleton gully with a few short rappels.