Five Fingers 5.6
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 75 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.6 [details] |
| FA: | Bob and Wilf Bruschke, Ted Wilson, 1960 |
| Submitted By: | Ryan Brough on Apr 18, 2007 |
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A little bit of everything in the Five Fingers. R...
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The land is owned by the LDS Church; please be respectful of this. MORE INFO >>>
Unknown by many people, the land, from at the LDS Church record vaults up to and including the Gate Buttress is owned by the LDS Church. The privately-owned areas include The Fin, The Thumb Area, Green Adjective Gully, Schoolroom Area, and Gate Buttress.
Over the past 40 years there have been several closures of this property to climbing.
Currently, climbers are welcome visitors in part because of Utah's Land Owner Liability Law and the work of local climbers to preserve access.
In 1998 through 2000 this area was quarried and is presently under restoration and re-vegetation. The climbers' trail goes through part of this area. Please stay on the trail so that this area can recover.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.
You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Description One route with a whole lot of climbing options, Five Fingers is a series of bottoming cracks and grooves that parallel each other, creating "fingers" in between. Most of these options are easy, but the climbing is technical. The rock quality is sharp and gritty, which tends to exfoliate individual crystals. Deeper in the cracks, the rock quality improves significantly, providing more security for jamming and the occasional jug. There crack on the far right is wider than the rest, and is probably the most difficult (5.7).
Location Five Fingers is a distinct "finger-like" formation situated in the middle of the Gate Buttress. It is above and to the west of the Dihedrals Area and to the east of the Schoolroom Rappel Area. The approach is awkward from all directions. The most direct approach is to climb the Prune Face Slab and then continue straight up the gully, staying on the right side. A scary third class approach is required from the Dihedrals Area, and a third class slab traverse is necessary from the Schoolroom Rappel Area. Start along the base of the cracks where the gully starts. There is a tree about 15 feet from the edge at the top of the cliff with several slings and two old rappel rings. One single rope rappel gains the gully.
Protection Depends which crack you climb, so bring an assortment of gear. Cams are easier to place in the grooves and flares. A tree with slings and rappel rings provide anchors about 15 feet across a ledge at the top.
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