A relatively easy area, with mainly trad routes. Some protect well, others don't. If you are looking for an alternate spot to climb when Schoolroom is busy, come here. The rock is a little dirtier then the rest of Gate.
Approach as per Schoolroom, and continue east, along the trail which turns into a ledge system.
Browse More Classics in Five Fingers Area
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Five Fingers Area:
Chicken Chickenhead 5.6 Trad, 1 pitch, 70 feet
Hornet's Rest 5.8+ Trad, 1 pitch, 70 feet
Featured Route For Five Fingers Area
Chicken Chickenhead 5.6 UT : Wasatch Range : ... : Five Fingers Area
Start up a fist crack between a slab on your right and a steep face on your left. Several large chickenheads provide jugs for those with poor crack climbing technique. Stem through a long trough chimney to what appears to be a belay underneath a right-facing dihedral. The crux is getting into the dihedral. I'm pretty sure that the chickenhead at the crux is the reason for the route's name....[more] Browse More Classics in UT