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Five Easy Steps
5.5 YDS 4b French 13 Ewbanks IV+ UIAA 11 ZA MS 4a British
Avg: 1.8 from 6 votes
Type: | Trad, 160 ft (48 m), 2 pitches |
FA: | unknown |
Page Views: | 1,247 total · 9/month |
Shared By: | Marta Reece on Jun 21, 2012 |
Admins: | Jason Halladay, Mike Hoskins, Anna Brown |
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Description
Five Easy Steps is the easiest route to the bolts used for rappel from several of the middle-of-the-wall climbs. Along with the ramp below the bolts it can provide access for top roping these routes. The two pitches described below can almost certainly be easily combined, but I have always climbed them separately. I use Five Easy Steps to introduce beginning climbers to trad. This arrangement allows me to watch my second on the traverse.
Pitch 1: Climb up a broken, right-facing corner. From its top, take a sloping traverse to the left aiming just below a small tree (currently marked by a bundle of slings) and to a comfortable ledge with a bush on the left end of it some ten feet beyond the tree. Build a gear anchor at the ledge.
Pitch 2: From the left end of the ledge go up another right-facing corner, staying left of the sotol. Continue up and little to the left over broken ground and few face moves to a wide ledge with chains above it.
Pitch 1: Climb up a broken, right-facing corner. From its top, take a sloping traverse to the left aiming just below a small tree (currently marked by a bundle of slings) and to a comfortable ledge with a bush on the left end of it some ten feet beyond the tree. Build a gear anchor at the ledge.
Pitch 2: From the left end of the ledge go up another right-facing corner, staying left of the sotol. Continue up and little to the left over broken ground and few face moves to a wide ledge with chains above it.
Location
Going past Best Bitters, you encounter an obvious left facing corner. Continue up for another 100 feet or so to a left-slanting ramp with two clumps of trees on it. This is the start of the route.
Rappel from chains using two ropes.
Rappel from chains using two ropes.
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