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The sketchy clipping block at the first bolt.
To locate this route, use the directions to find "Pinhead" and "Easy Cheese" to get yourself to the base of the "Head Cheese" roof. "Five Dollars" is three routes to the right of Easy Cheese.
This route is almost great. If only the first half was as good as the last half....
Begin this route by weedwhacking up on poor rock. You can honestly feel it sag if you step on a certain hold. The rock doesn't look particularly bad, but drum on it a bit and it will make you laugh. The good news is that there aren't any bolts drilled in this choss. The bad news is that the first bolt is about 25 feet up, and you have to commit to a mini-roof block jug to clip it. At first this is a bit intimidating due to the rubble you have gotten used to. Take heart though, because the rock from the roof to the anhors is bomber.
After you have clipped this first bolt, pull the mini roof onto a nice little ledge. The next clip is pretty awkward. After you have clipped this, slab your way up prickly friction face with some small pockets. Expect a couple dicey clips on the last 4 bolts.
If your footwork is as bad as mine was on this route, you can pretty much prepare to get your backside paddled.
Van Horn says 4 bolts. Select 200 says 7 bolts. I think it was 6 bolts and anchors.
|By Matt Robertson|
Oct 29, 2001
Sketchy and loose. I would not recommend this route to someone nearing his or her limit at 5.10+.The upper slab is technical and nice, but the high first bolt and unprotected 5.9 moves on chossy rock warrant caution. Be very mindful of a red block about three feet below the small roof - as mentioned above, it sounds disconcertingly loose, and a ground fall here would leave one bruised and filled with cactus spines.