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Five Card Draw 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 400', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Rex Wolters? bolts - Clint Cook?
Season: Summer & Early Fall
Page Views: 1,900
Submitted By: Lee Frazer on Jun 11, 2009

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Description 

This climb is on large slab right of Gold Rush ice climb. It is immediately left of Silver Stage.

3 pitches.

Protection 

12 draws. Two 60 meter ropes. Helmets would be a good idea as a party on Silver Stage could kick rock onto this climb.


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By Clint Cook
Aug 6, 2009

Hey Guys,

I put this up a couple years ago, it still needs a couple bolts on the 1st pitch to do it like I wanted, Eurostyle. 4 30m raps. I thought it was 5.7 and the one on the right was 5.8. Didn't mean to sandbag. I called it the 14 Carat Mind, but Pancho and Lefty is great. One of my all-time favorite songs. Glad to hear someone else has climbed it. I'll get over and finish the job, sorry.

Cheers, Clint Cook
By Lee Frazer
From: Durango, Colorado
Aug 13, 2009

Yes, great song (I'm a Townes Van Zandt fan myself). The guys in Silverton consider this a 5.9 and I could see that. Though most of it felt 5.7-5.8, there's a short section near the top of the first pitch that could go 9.
By Lee Frazer
From: Durango, Colorado
Sep 2, 2009

Thanks Rex. Will make the change! The .11 you put up looks fun.
By Clint Cook
Sep 27, 2009

Hey Guys,

I thought Five Card Draw followed the protectable crack features which the sport line crosses a couple times. I climbed that a couple times and thought the better climb was on the slabs surrounding the features. I did not mean to retrobolt anything. I thought it seemed like an independent line.
By chosspector
From: San Juans, CO
Sep 28, 2009

Clint, I think it is a great line and you did a good job bolting it. I guess it's hard to tell what the 'line' is on that wall, it's all really climbable. The Petzl stainless bolts you used are bomber, thanks for spending the extra $$ to ensure a safe long lasting route.
By Lee Frazer
From: Durango, Colorado
Sep 29, 2009

I agree. The retro-bolting on Five Cart Draw was well done, Clint. It's a fun climb, and made all the more fun w/ the safe bolting.
By ozman
From: CO / NM
Sep 18, 2011

Good route. Much cleaner than Eureka Pillar. This would have some spicy moves for 5.7; I'd grade those moves at 5.9 as well. I hate slabs though. I'd leave the doubles at home. Easy 30m raps with a single 60m rope. You would still have to make 2 raps with doubles, so saving one single rap is not worth dragging another rope up there. Not as dirty as everyone says. However, with any alpine-like climb, be a good steward and help clean the route. Car to car took us 2 hours. Did this the same morning as Hard Rock Miner on the Eureka Pillar. Nice bolt job.