Five and Dime
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Five and Dime is the classic and namesake climb for this crag. It is a strenuous crack that takes a wide ranges of gear, from small to off hands. The crux revolves around a strange pod midway up, followed by difficult finger locks and finishes with a burly hand to large-hand sized crack. The gear is solid throughout, and if you are solid too then you should do well on this one.
From the left side of the wall, this is the fifth line. Locate the obvious crack line with a pod-like feature midway. The start is slightly bouldery along some knobs up to a ledge twenty feet from the ground.
Nuts and cams from small fingers (Green alien) to #3 Camalot. Single rack should suffice.
BETA PHOTO: Five & Dime starts on the knobby face at bottom le...
Pulling through the fingers/ring locks section wit...
BETA PHOTO: Copper Penny/Five and Dime beta telephoto.
|Comments on Five and Dime
|By Will S|
From: Joshua Tree
Jun 6, 2007
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b
One of the best. Face to gently overhanging crack, opening from fingers to cups. The business section is mostly thin hands/rings so rack accordingly. I had doubles in .75 and 2 camalots and was happy to have them.
From: Oakland, CA
Sep 25, 2007
It'd be tough to squeeze more sustained difficulty into the .10d rating. This climb makes you earn it.
|By andy patterson|
From: Santa Barbara, CA
Mar 24, 2008
I'll second that opinion; Five and Dime is every bit the grade. People say that if you can lead this climb, you can lead any 5.10d in the Valley. I can't vouch for that opinion, but I've done 11's that I thought were easier.
Dec 13, 2009
Yes, Five and Dime is definitive 5.10d. Finger Lickin' is also. But you should try to lead Mark Of Art.
On a different note, Barry Bates' climbs are the best! Open the Don Reid guide to the first assent section and look for his name. Then head out and do 'em! You will not become weak on a steady diet of Barry Bates climbs.
|By Ken Trout|
From: Golden, CO
Jan 31, 2011
In the Sierra Club mountaineering journal, Ascent, 1973, Jim Bridwell proposed letter grades for 5.10. His examples for 5.10d thin cracks were; Catchy, Vanishing Point, Serenity Crack, Olga's Trick, Five and Dime, and Leaning Meany.
|By Dave Alden|
From: San Diego, CA
Feb 28, 2011
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b PG13
Very fun route, but a hard lead!