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The Five and Dime Cliff is a smaller crag down the hillside from the Reeds Parking pullout. It has some excellent shorter pitches ranging from trad to bolted, and provides a nice alternative if all of your planned routes at Reed's are occupied. The crag does get sun throughout the day, like Reed's, and has fantastic views of the Merced river and the Rostrum. Rock quality is excellent overall, and your standard Yosemite rack should suffice. Pitches are 70 - 130 feet, some routes have lowering anchors, others are walk off from the top.
Start from the Reed's parking pullout (b/w the tunnels on Hwy 120), and walk toward the eastern tunnel. As you walk along the road, look for a small climbers trail heading down the slope. Navigate the loose dirt trail through the trees and head toward the cliff. This trail will circle around to the base of the cliff, and the approach time is roughly 10 minutes, although longer for the walk back out.
10 Total Routes
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Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Five and Dime Cliff:
Inner Reaches 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b Trad, 2 pitches, 120'
Keystone Corner 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Mockery 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Copper Penny 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a Trad
Bijou 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b Sport, 60'
Five and Dime 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Whack and Dangle 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c Trad
Nickel Bag 5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Featured Route For Five and Dime Cliff
Five and Dime 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b CA : Yosemite National Park : ... : Five and Dime Cliff
Five and Dime is the classic and namesake climb for this crag. It is a strenuous crack that takes a wide ranges of gear, from small to off hands. The crux revolves around a strange pod midway up, followed by difficult finger locks and finishes with a burly hand to large-hand sized crack. The gear is solid throughout, and if you are solid too then you should do well on this one. ...[more] Browse More Classics in CA
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