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Chimney Rock
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FIUTT 
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Yardarm variation to Crows Nest T 

FIUTT 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  , 2 pitches, 200'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Merle Wheeler, Scott Williams, 1971
Page Views: 1,482
Submitted By: John Peterson on Feb 25, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
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Description 

It's so sad to see the tree go. Instead of the tough boulder problem or the insecure step out of the tree, the start of this climb is now an ignoble pile of rocks placed to get you over the initial hard section.

Although the start of FIUTT (F*** It Use The Tree) is no longer with us, the dihedral is still there and still classic. Climb a stellar corner rising from the right side of the ledge atop the initial bouldering section. You eventually trend right out of the corner unless you want to do the 5.10 finish. The start is a bit right of Standard Route.


Protection 

Standard Mt Lemmon rack



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By Andy Bennett
From: Tucson, AZ
Jan 22, 2013
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

We did the 5.10 finish the other day and it's well-worth doing. It's tricky but not impossible to protect. Save as many aid/tips/finger size pieces, slings, and RPs as you can, as well as a hands-size cam, for this direct finish. Belay off your harness against the front of the alcove that you top-out in (bad rock quality for anchors), or use the pine tree way behind you; I'm not sure if a 70m would make it back to the ground, mine doesn't have a middle mark...This climb could use a bolt anchor...The main FIUTT corner has some really cool stemming!