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Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
69 
Apoplexy 
BB Route 
Birthday Biscuit Boy 
Black Fly 
Boston 
Brat Direct, The 
Bridal Path 
Bunny 
CC Route 
Charie 
Clover 
Coronary 
Crimson Corner 
Das Wiggles 
DD Route 
Dirty Chimney 
Dirty Gerdie 
Double Chin 
Double Clutch 
Easy Keyhole 
Eyebrow 
Fancy Idiot 
Fitschen's Folly 
Flake, The 
Handy Andy 
Harvard 
Heel Hook and Hack-it 
Herdie Gerdie 
Horseman 
Hudson's Boulder Problem, aka Trashcan Overhang 
Jacob's Ladder 
Junior 
Katzenjammer 
Ken's Crack 
Keyhole 
Laurel 
Low Exposure 
Lower Eaves 
Mental Block (Toprope) 
Mitty Mouse  
Nice 5.9 Climb 
Nice Crack Climb 
No Picnic 
No Solution 
Nosedive 
Nurdie Gerdie (aka Dogs in Heat) 
Phoebe 
Red Cabbage 
Red Cabbage Right 
Retribution 
Rhododendron 
Shit or Go Blind 
Short Job 
Sonja 
Squiggles 
Squiggles Direct 
Suderiferous: 5.8 variation 
Susie A 
Trapped Like a Rat 
Uberfall Descent 
Walter Mitty 
Unsorted Routes:

Fitschen's Folly 

5.8 X

   
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Type: Trad, TR, 50 feet
Consensus: 5.8+ [details]
FA: Joe Fitschen 1961
Submitted By: Mark Roth on Nov 2, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (13)
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Description 

Thin, sustained, and poorly protected. A good intro to technical face climbing.


Location 

The face to the right of Boston. If you are already top-roping in the area, this one is not to be missed.

Scramble down the Uberfall Descent to the left after you're done.


Protection 

Although this was originally led, this is probably better done as a TR. There is not much protection. Trees and gear and long slings are necessary for a toprope anchor.



Comments on Fitschen's Folly Add Comment
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By Kevin Heckeler
From: West Sand Lake, New York
May 15, 2011
rating: 5.8+ X

We set the primary anchor on Boston, then walked over on rapel and slung the small tree directly above the route. Just make sure the sling is as low as you can get it to avoid damaging the tree.

Route is a lot of fun, comparable to the few 5.10 adirondack face climbs I've done. It's probably on grade for what I expect in a gunks 5.8 climb.

By rogerbenton
May 26, 2012
rating: 5.8 X

TR'd this soaking wet today.

Nerve racking!

really nice face climb though, just weird when everything is wet and slimy.

By Benjamin Chapman
From: CA
Dec 25, 2012

Sounds about right. 5.8 at the Gunks and 5.10 everywhere else. Fun little game they play with the ratings.