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> Fairy Cave Wall
Fists of Fairy
5.11a YDS 6c French 22 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 22 ZA E3 5c British
Avg: 3 from 1 vote
Type: | Sport, 140 ft (42 m), 3 pitches |
FA: | Ch'ien Lee and Glen MacNair ( 2005) |
Page Views: | 506 total · 3/month |
Shared By: | Glen Charnoski on Nov 2, 2011 |
Admins: | Nate Ball |
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Description
From the stairway the leader "Batman Starts" to the first bolt on top of the cave entrance. The second will need to prusik or jumar up the rope by himself!
Pitch 1 (6a+): Awkward first move, then up and right diagonal, then up again (crux) to the belay station (hanging belay).
Pitch 2 (5.6b): Straigt up then move right (crux) and further up (pumpy) to a ledge with a belay station.
Pitch 3 (6b+): Step up left on the big block (it moves!) to clip the first bolt. Then climb up through a technical crux and mantle to a big ledge (optional belay station). Easy climbing up to the right gets you to base of Nepenthes Wall with a double-bolt belay/abseil station. Rap or enter the cave and follow the path/stairs back out the cave.
Pitch 1 (6a+): Awkward first move, then up and right diagonal, then up again (crux) to the belay station (hanging belay).
Pitch 2 (5.6b): Straigt up then move right (crux) and further up (pumpy) to a ledge with a belay station.
Pitch 3 (6b+): Step up left on the big block (it moves!) to clip the first bolt. Then climb up through a technical crux and mantle to a big ledge (optional belay station). Easy climbing up to the right gets you to base of Nepenthes Wall with a double-bolt belay/abseil station. Rap or enter the cave and follow the path/stairs back out the cave.
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