This clean-cut beauty is a great, pure splitter. Along with others like it, it is very unique to Red Rock. The only thing it lacks, from my knowledge, is a good anchor. It is definitely worth throwing a couple extra cams in the pack if you're going to be in the area.
From the right side of the ledge, climb a cool, lower angle thin hands crack past a bush (or the chimney to the left). Once at the dead vertical (perhaps slightly overhanging) headwall, some broken up handcracks lead to the base of the main course where a #3 will fit. For some it'll turn out to be pretty solid fists. For others, something a little more awkward! The crack and face are spectacularly clean. Eventually, the rock and crack become more broken up again and the rock quality gets, well, a little worse.
The route is obvious from the base of power failure. It's not really on the Ginger buttress. Continue up the gully, scrambling a bit, until a steep little bulge must be pulled to gain the big ledge at the base of the route.
Double up on everything from big fingers to hands and take 2 or 3 #3 and #4 camalots each. The business is splitter #4 and you could walk one above you for a while (i.e. you may only want to carry one all the way up there if that sounds cool). 3 #3s is a good idea.
|By Brian Prince|
From: morro bay, ca
Apr 4, 2013
I rapped off a fixed #2 camalot with a long cord clipped to it (after testing with backup). It might be possible to continue to the top of the shoulder and rap off a tree back there. Or maybe there's an actual anchor up there. Going right after the crack ends to gain the top might work, but the rock looked a little scary over there. Going straight up, past the fixed #2, is also possible. I had a 70m. A 60m from the #2 would probably work, but'd be close.
Unless you're willing to leave your own gear behind, I wouldn't really recommend stopping here. The cam and rock seem pretty solid but the sling on the cam has aged from yellow to white. And, if you keep going, go ahead and take it with you. Let me know how it turns out.
|By Jon O'Brien|
May 7, 2013
cool to post, thanks, have wanted to do this in combo every time we head to that area but have never bothered to go look, nice post!