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Routes in Critic's Choice
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(Brutus of) Wyde Choice T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X |
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Acronymph T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Barley Route T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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BBC from Cleveland (Big Bold Climbers) T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Belly Full of Bad Berries T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Blue Square T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Break a Leg T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Bunny Slope T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Critic's Choice T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Critical Mass T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Cult Classic T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Ed's World T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Ed's World (Left Variation) T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Fingerling T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Fist of Fury T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Fisticuffs T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Hitch Hiker's Thumb, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c A0 |
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Just Because T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Knees without honor T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Life.... T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Mr. Bad News T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Mr. Critical T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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New Life or Second Life T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Pinch It T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Refractory Period T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Ruby Flame T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Sabrina T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Second Choice T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Sgt. Fish Scale T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Short and Stout T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Sugar Plum T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Thin and Tipsy T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Tom's Thumb T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Uncut T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Unknown T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Unknown T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Unknown Chimney S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Unknown Wide Corner Route T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Unnamed 5.10 T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Unnamed 5.10 Flare T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Wrench Route T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, 100 ft (30 m) |
| FA: | Shaun Reed, Ben Hamilton, Phil Powers |
| Page Views: | 2,554 total · 25/month |
| Shared By: | Shaun Reed on Oct 29, 2015 |
| Admins: | slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: 2024 Raptor Avoidance Areas! Limited Toilet Facilities!
Details
Limited toilet/port a potty facilities: Have poop plan! Visit: facebook.com/friendsofindia…
saltlakeclimbers.org/news/2…
2023 Raptor Avoidance Areas- The Wall, Far Side, The Meat Walls, Cliffs of Insanity, Public Service Wall, Disappointment Cliffs, Fin Wall, Broken Tooth, Cat Wall, Slug Wall, and Reservoir Wall. See map in photos section.
Each spring raptors return to the Indian Creek area for nesting. Eagles, falcons, hawks, and other migratory birds use shallow depressions on ledges, cliffs and rock walls to build nests, often returning to the same site year after year to raise their young. The Bureau of Land Management (BLM) requests that visitors and recreationists avoid these areas during critical nesting periods which typically start in early March and last through late August. Avoiding recreational activity in the vicinity of the nest sites along and maintaining a safe viewing distance will help ensure survival of young birds.
Beginning March 1, the public is asked to avoid climbing in areas that are historically known to have raptor nesting activity or have a high potential for nesting. Areas that have potential nesting activity are referred to in many climbing guidebooks as: The Wall, Far Side, The Meat Walls, Cliffs of Insanity, Public Service Wall, Disappointment Cliffs, Fin Wall, Broken Tooth, Cat Wall, Slug Wall, Reservoir Wall and Critic’s Choice. While this list serves as a guide, it does not indicate every avoidance area or encompass all known names of the affected climbing areas. Please refer to the provided “Raptor Protection Map” to identify avoidance areas. The BLM is coordinating these raptor protection efforts with the Utah School and Institutional Trust Lands Administration, who is the administrator of the climbing areas known as Disappointment Cliffs and portions of the Second Meat Wall climbing area. The avoidance areas only cover a portion of Disappointment Cliffs, see the map for additional details.
In March, BLM biologists will begin the annual surveys of raptor activity to verify which historic nest sites are being used. Typically, by late April or early May, biologists can identify the nesting areas the raptors have selected. At that time the areas without active nests will be cleared for recreational use. The BLM requests that climbers, campers, and hikers completely avoid areas with active nests until the young birds have fledged, which is usually by late summer. Biologists will monitor nesting activity throughout the season and keep the recreation community informed of potential changes. Avoidance area notices and maps will be posted throughout the Indian Creek Corridor during the recreation season.
While falcons and eagles are not overly common sights in southeastern Utah, they are present throughout the area and keen-eyed observers are sometimes rewarded with their aerial acrobatics. Visitors can watch adult birds hunt or observe the antics of young raptors perfecting their flying techniques. These species in Utah continue to recover from low population levels, thanks in part to cooperation from the public, climbing communities and governmental partners. The BLM would like to remind the public there are private land holdings throughout the Indian Creek Corridor. Please respect private landowners’ boundaries and signage.
For questions about this avoidance areas, raptors, and migratory bird habitat in the Monticello area, please contact Rachel Wootton with the BLM Monticello Field Office at 435-587-1500. Persons who use a telecommunications device for the deaf (TTY) may call 711 to leave a message or question. The TTY Relay System is available 24 hours a day, seven days a week. Replies are provided during normal business hours.
blm.gov/announcement/blm-an…
saltlakeclimbers.org/news/2…
2023 Raptor Avoidance Areas- The Wall, Far Side, The Meat Walls, Cliffs of Insanity, Public Service Wall, Disappointment Cliffs, Fin Wall, Broken Tooth, Cat Wall, Slug Wall, and Reservoir Wall. See map in photos section.
Each spring raptors return to the Indian Creek area for nesting. Eagles, falcons, hawks, and other migratory birds use shallow depressions on ledges, cliffs and rock walls to build nests, often returning to the same site year after year to raise their young. The Bureau of Land Management (BLM) requests that visitors and recreationists avoid these areas during critical nesting periods which typically start in early March and last through late August. Avoiding recreational activity in the vicinity of the nest sites along and maintaining a safe viewing distance will help ensure survival of young birds.
Beginning March 1, the public is asked to avoid climbing in areas that are historically known to have raptor nesting activity or have a high potential for nesting. Areas that have potential nesting activity are referred to in many climbing guidebooks as: The Wall, Far Side, The Meat Walls, Cliffs of Insanity, Public Service Wall, Disappointment Cliffs, Fin Wall, Broken Tooth, Cat Wall, Slug Wall, Reservoir Wall and Critic’s Choice. While this list serves as a guide, it does not indicate every avoidance area or encompass all known names of the affected climbing areas. Please refer to the provided “Raptor Protection Map” to identify avoidance areas. The BLM is coordinating these raptor protection efforts with the Utah School and Institutional Trust Lands Administration, who is the administrator of the climbing areas known as Disappointment Cliffs and portions of the Second Meat Wall climbing area. The avoidance areas only cover a portion of Disappointment Cliffs, see the map for additional details.
In March, BLM biologists will begin the annual surveys of raptor activity to verify which historic nest sites are being used. Typically, by late April or early May, biologists can identify the nesting areas the raptors have selected. At that time the areas without active nests will be cleared for recreational use. The BLM requests that climbers, campers, and hikers completely avoid areas with active nests until the young birds have fledged, which is usually by late summer. Biologists will monitor nesting activity throughout the season and keep the recreation community informed of potential changes. Avoidance area notices and maps will be posted throughout the Indian Creek Corridor during the recreation season.
While falcons and eagles are not overly common sights in southeastern Utah, they are present throughout the area and keen-eyed observers are sometimes rewarded with their aerial acrobatics. Visitors can watch adult birds hunt or observe the antics of young raptors perfecting their flying techniques. These species in Utah continue to recover from low population levels, thanks in part to cooperation from the public, climbing communities and governmental partners. The BLM would like to remind the public there are private land holdings throughout the Indian Creek Corridor. Please respect private landowners’ boundaries and signage.
For questions about this avoidance areas, raptors, and migratory bird habitat in the Monticello area, please contact Rachel Wootton with the BLM Monticello Field Office at 435-587-1500. Persons who use a telecommunications device for the deaf (TTY) may call 711 to leave a message or question. The TTY Relay System is available 24 hours a day, seven days a week. Replies are provided during normal business hours.
blm.gov/announcement/blm-an…
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek
Details
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
Description
We did this route a few years ago now (2011?) and I may not have the details quite right. This route is 5 - 10 minutes to the left of Bunny Slope, around the corner. I still need to go back and put a plaque at the base, but the route has an obvious fist to OW crack roof traverse (the route's namesake) about 80 or 90 ft up that is about 10 ft long. The crack starts off the ground as fingers and slowly widens to hands before the roof, then good fists and liebacking through the roof. I think you can get by with a double rack of cams up to BD#3, then at least one #4 and #5, and probably a #6 above the lip. Crack is very clean, but we did have to pull off a 15 ft tall skinny block in the middle of the route, which is probably why nobody had done it before. The rock above the roof is a bit crumbly, but not too difficult. When I did the route, I remember my fists fit perfectly (normal size male hands) and it felt like climbing one of those peg boards we had in gym class.
Two bolt anchor at the top. I'm pretty sure a 60m rope will get you down.
Have fun!
Two bolt anchor at the top. I'm pretty sure a 60m rope will get you down.
Have fun!
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