|(1) School Gate
A climb which will be difficulty and fun-level dependent upon your personal taste and body size. The crux will be fists for some, forearms for others, and stacks for the smallest. The thuggy movement might beg the climber to wait for cooler weather, and the rock texture may encourage the less experienced crack climbers to wait for long-sleeve weather.
Climb a few easy moves to reach the bottom of the dihedral, then jam and thrutch up the fist and off-fist moves (forearm locks for me) through an early crux to reach more mellow climbing above, romping up 5.6 moves with good mid-sized protection to an anchor up and left. While the bottom is great rock and classic climbing - an essential for fist crack, it is over too soon to earn the full 3 stars (classic) that the Robertson book gives it. I'd give it two stars. The nearby route 'Surprise Crack (10a)' is a better route still, and a great warm-up for this one anyway.
The route is the most prominent crack on the East rib of the Disco Buttress. Start off the east ledge/ramp and climb a few feet up a crack and offset to reach a hanging, steep left-facing dihedral.
Stoppers and cams to 5" for overhead pro, or 4" if you don't mind some space between pieces.
|By Nate Ball|
From: Taipei, TW
Apr 4, 2013
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tony's description is interesting. Here is a little bit more detail...
At the nose of rock that protrudes from the center of Disco Buttress, locate the crack along its left side. Move up to below the first roof, plug a good #2, then use an undercling, face holds, and a high hand jam (painful!) to pull yourself over the lip. Easy moves lead up to the right nostril. Protect here with #3. My fists are too small to jam this bit, but with some face holds and footwork in the crack, you can pull through. Get a #4 as high as possible before pulling this, because unless you have and want to carry a #5, you will have to run it out a bit. Avoid the giant chunk at the top of the crack, instead straddling the nose and pulling up to the ledge. From here, step left to a brushy hands crack which splits the slab, and continue up this through 5.7ish stone to the anchors at the top.
Two glue-in bolts. Gear to 4".