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Stone Tower Boulder
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Locksmith ...AKA Seam Right 
AM/FM 
As Seen on TV 
Blacksmith.....AKA Seam Direct  
Bump, The 
Buttermilker, The 
Dean's Problem 
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Fancy Clown  
Fist Fucker  
Green Haze  
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Invasion of the Pad People  
Luck of the Irish 
Pete's Problem 
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Fist Fucker  

Hueco: V5 Font: 6C

   
Type:  Boulder
Consensus:  Hueco: V5 Font: 6C [details]
FA: Bob Parrot
Page Views: 1,206
Submitted By: andyscott on Sep 28, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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Pete on Fist Fucker. Some slopers on Green Haze ca...

Description 

Squat starts under the small roof with left hand in a large cave-like hold and right on a slopey crimp next to it. Make a big move out of the small roof and continue on by traversing the left-leaning arete, and top out around the corner. An easier variation, about V4, climbs directly out the roof and tops out straight up above.

Location 

This is directly left of ?Mister Shorty?, starting under the obvious roof/overhang.

Protection 

A couple pads.


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By Old Timer
Administrator
From: North Andover MA
Oct 2, 2010
rating: V5 6C

A full-sit to this problem that goes at V7- was recently sent. Start with a low left crimp (sidepull) and the slopey, right rim (below the cave-like feature you use for the squat start) and sparse feet. Make a huge move to the sloper, lock off, and finish as for the V5 version.
By Ryan B
Mar 18, 2011
rating: V5- 6C

I like to start this climb with a left hand in the big hole and a right on the slopey arete on the Green Haze. It goes about the same grade either way, but the first two moves are more fun. The sit start to this climb is great.
By JamieRe
From: Providence, RI
Sep 9, 2012
rating: V5 6C

I liked the alt start that Ryan B mentioned. Cool problem.
By Adam F.
Mar 22, 2013

Is Bob Parrott on MP? I met him @ the Jenny Lake boulders in WY like 10 years ago and wanted to say hey.

Anyone???