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Fist Fight 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 130'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: M. South, B. Soule Mid to Late 1990's
Page Views: 153
Submitted By: PDub-Trad on Aug 19, 2012

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Description 

Slightly uphill from the uber obvious and epic Plumbers Butt ow wide crack. Knife is the next climbers left corner dihedral with a steep (lyback optional) fist sized crack, leaving a rest ledge half-way up the route. Previous to this portion is 5.8/5.7 climbing in a dihedral, with the bottom 10 feet still retaining moss. Beyond this first bit a finger to large finger crack with face holds and big blocky corners lead up to the distinctive ledge and crux traverse. If lybacking the crux traverse a simple set of 4 minor foot ledges will link what feels like harder than 5.9 moves. This bouldery steep section is followed up with a wider than fists turning to vert set of moves, kicking the feet high to a minor ledge with the wide crack on the left. By the time this next rest ledge is reached, stemming to the right side wall can also help. From this rest ledge, 5.8 moves link to the end, but beyond the cruxs, rests thru most moves and most gear stances can be found. Look for holds and stems outside of the crack. At the t/o a minor ledge and tree is the primary anchor. From this tree if your walking out the summit take a right (facing the cliff) and traverse around a set of bushes above this tree anchor to gain the cliffsides toptrail. At times Fist-fight has had a fixed cord rap station at this tree, but this anchor was removed in 2012 trips.


Location 

Climbers left of Plumbers Butt, before Sasquatch. Between Plumbers and Fist Fight is Knife Fight. It utilizes fist fight for bottom portion than utilizes slab, vert and steep linking into fist-fights end after both routes' crux. If you've walked to Mushroom Band, you've walked past Fist-Fighting Plumbers


Protection 

#00 to 4.5 doubles helps in fingers to big fingers and larger than fist sizes. The larger than fist size can be placed at multiple points during the crux



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