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> N America
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> 03. Portneuf
> Lac Long
> 13 Atomic Limbo
Fission atomique
5.12a YDS 7a+ French 25 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British
Avg: 3.2 from 6
votes
Routes in 13 Atomic Limbo
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Atomic Limbo T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Cerfconcis T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Codéinomane T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Fission atomique T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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La Solitude du jardinier T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Le Jardin Secret [Var] T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Long Lake Premium T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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| Type: | Trad, 100 ft (30 m) |
| FA: | Miguel Puerto, october 2011 |
| Page Views: | 915 total · 8/month |
| Shared By: | Luc-514 on Aug 4, 2014 · Updates |
| Admins: | Luc-514, Thierry Berland, Richer Lariviere |
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Access Issue: This Cliff is insured for liability by the FQME
Details
All climbers must have:
-FQME 'Accès Montagne' membership (65$)
-For members of the Alpine Club of Canada an FQME 'Accès Montagne' upgrade (30$)
Or purchasing a 10$ day pass.
This money is used to pay the liability insurance for landowners regardless if they are private citizens, municipal or provincial.
The maintenance of cliffs and their access, replacing of fixed protection.
fqme.qc.ca
-FQME 'Accès Montagne' membership (65$)
-For members of the Alpine Club of Canada an FQME 'Accès Montagne' upgrade (30$)
Or purchasing a 10$ day pass.
This money is used to pay the liability insurance for landowners regardless if they are private citizens, municipal or provincial.
The maintenance of cliffs and their access, replacing of fixed protection.
fqme.qc.ca
Description
Same start as Atomic. Break left towards the roofs in the first orange dihedral, then follow the right edge of the sequential roofs.
Même départ qu'Atomic. Faire fission vers les toits à la gauche dans le premier dièdre orange et rester sur le bord droit des toits séquentiels.
Protection
Protection in sequence:
Blue Camalot #3 before the first bolt (to be safe)
Purple Camalot #.5 after the first bolt
Yellow X4 #.2
Red Camalot #1 just prior to the 5.12
bolt
Grey X4 #.4 in the crack
Bolts to the end
Dans ordre :
Avant la premiere bolt camalot #3 (pour etre safe)
Camalot mauve #.5 après la première bolt
X4 #.2 jaune
Camalot #1 rouge juste avant d'embarquer dans la 5.12
bolt
X4 #.4 gris fissure
bolt jusqu'a la fin
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