Fission aka Ken T'ank 

I did the first ascent of this route a few years ago. I did not bolt it but the equipper quit climbing and said have at it. Originally called "Fission" in Rolofson's Clear Creek guide. I don't know where Ken T'ank's came from but I don't care. A good route.

Jim, sounds like you did the FA. Did you name the route anything? I named it Ken T'ank based on the name that was written on chalk at the base of the route. That name may refer to the left variation. I don't know. I think in Rolofson's guide the route was called listed as "Fission (AKA: Ken Tanks)".

I believe the route was bolted by Tim from Boulder, Hank Caylor and Ken Kenny got the FA after it was bolted, hence the name blending in the three equippers together.

This is a really great route - probably one of the most fun that I have done at this grade in Clear Creek - the movement is superb. The chalked Ken T'ank at the bottom says 12+, that would be a little stouter than the route seemed going through the right set of bolts. The left variation? looks somewhat harder than .12d. It would be nice to know what the left line is. All in all, this one is well worth doing.

Awsome route! Get on it.

The name Ken T'ank came from Ken, Tim and Hank. We went up there and moved a misplaced bolt but were not responsible for bolting it. After that all 3 of us did it, 1st Ken then myself (T) and then Hank ('ank). We wrote the name Ken T'ank at the base and rated it .12 b/c someone else apparently thought it to be harder.
Anyway a couple of days later I was talking to Jim Redo only to find out he did it a day or so before us.
Always thought it was a great route. Glad to see others enjoy it as much as we did. I think it would get 3 stars (or 5 depending on your scale) for the grade at any crag.

Crux is tough if you're shorter. At 5'7", it was a 3 points off dyno to the sloper. Felt low percentage. Quite stoked to send. Just out of curiosity, is there different beta other than: left hand on the 'block crimp' above the bad jug and right hand on the crimp undercling, work feet up as high as possible, then huck?

Bitchin’ route. I think the upper crux is just as difficult as the first but in a tottaly different way. The variation to the left actually looks kind of cool.

Great line!! This is one of those special lines you will always revisit. Just a beautiful wall with two exciting cruxes separated by a really cool no hands rest. Best 5.12 I've done in a while. All things being said, however, I felt that a rating of 5.12b would be fitting... after all there is a no hands rest in the middle of the wall and the 1st crux didn't really feel any harder that (V3). But all grade mongering aside... this line is not to be missed!!!

While climbing at the Primo area this past weekend (9/26/10), I noticed the good sidepull flake that is usually used to clip the second bolt has broken off of this climb. Any comments on a change in the difficulty of the route without this hold??

Does anyone know if the direct (or leftish) variation has been done yet? I tried it a while ago, it felt hard, at least .13d. I spent two hours on it and could only do half the moves, but maybe I was having a bad day....

Kaelen, I have tried the variation as well but couldn't really touch it. I have asked around, and as far as I know it still has yet to see an FA, but I wouldn't be surprised someone pipes up and claims they got it. There are some Herculean strong mofos that hang around the Primo area.... If you ended up linking it, I would wouldn't contest the grade of .13/13+-ish.

I think the variation was bolted by Scott Hahn. I don't know if he sent it or not. He has an account here, so someone can PM him to find out....

Agree with those who tried this version, which is really old. V10 or harder boulder problem? A bit contrived but definitely worthy.

I messaged Scott about the variation. He didn't bolt it. Maybe you were thinking of the Gauntlet Direct, which he did bolt.

Anyway, seems like no one has done it yet.

Julian Kinsman bolted both the left and right variations. One bolt was added after the F.A. of the right variation.

That's what my notes say, too, Jim. I am pretty sure that Mark would confirm, too.

Jimmy - Good to see you are still climbing!
I am glad to see this route is getting climbed. I bolted this shortly after Hot Rocks just up the hill. I was drawn to this rock.

The left hand crimp that you usually use to clip bolt two has broken and is slightly smaller now; it doesn't change the grade but makes clipping bolt two a bit more tricky. I stick clipped after climbing up and then back down after I couldn't find a decent stance... what a great route!

A right hand side pull below bolt #2 is about to rip off. We put a giant X on it. At first it feels solid, but as you move higher and pull out on it more it starts to make horrible noises. Most people use it as a foot moving into the crux, so be careful especially so low on the route. You can clip #2 from a low stance if you sneak left to a horn for your left hand and stem your feet up.

This route is freaking awesome. Beautiful setting next to the river where you can't hear any road noise. The route is very cool with a bouldery face crux down low and some rad climbing on the refrigerator block up high. Recommend stick clipping bolt 2 on the route and doing it that way. The bolting on the bottom of the block is a little ridiculous with bolts 2 feet a part from each other. Nonetheless, this thing is worth projecting or doing it as a warm-up for the hard shit over at Primo....