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Ken T'ank Low Start S 
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Semi -Automatic T 

Fission aka Ken T'ank 

YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b/c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Jim Redo
Page Views: 6,249
Submitted By: Adam Holmes on Oct 19, 2002

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Ken T'ank
Photo by Erik McGillvary.

Temporary closures near Fiscal Cliff: May-July 2014 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is a great route and far enough away from the road to be enjoyable.

This route is downstream from the main Primo Wall cliff. Pass the main wall, and then pass a slab (with 5.9 and 12b routes) until you reach a wall that is almost perpendicular with the river. Someone wrote "Ken T'ank" in chalk at the base of the route. The upper portion of this wall has very cool wave shapes. Also look for a small bush halfway up the wall.

The route moves up through thin crimps to a toss to a sloper. The mid-section of the route is jugs leading to a great rest. Then finish up through bearhug moves as you slap 2 aretes. It has very interesting movement and is one of the better routes I've climbed at Clear Creek.

Midway up the route, there are a few bolts diverging off to the left. It looks like a variation that is much harder, and I'm not sure if it's completed.

Protection 

9 or 10 bolts + anchors.


Photos of Fission aka Ken T'ank Slideshow Add Photo
Ken T'ank.
Ken T'ank.
Luke Childers making the warm-up on-sight of the classic "Ken T'anks.
Luke Childers making the warm-up on-sight of the c...
Kai Huang hiking the crux on Ken T'Anks.
Kai Huang hiking the crux on Ken T'Anks.
Brad Derbin strolling up Ken't'ank.
Brad Derbin strolling up Ken't'ank.
Jason on "Ken Tanks" just after a broken foot!!  Killer!!
Jason on "Ken Tanks" just after a broken foot!! K...
Going for it. <br /> <br />Photo by Erik McGillvary.
Going for it.

Photo by Erik McGillvary.
Just one great climb! Happy to be back in Colorado.
Just one great climb! Happy to be back in Colorado...
Luke Childers crushing "Ken T'anks for the on-sight.  Classic line.  A must do!!
Luke Childers crushing "Ken T'anks for the on-sigh...
James finishing the upper crux.
James finishing the upper crux.
Luke Childers coming up with the on-sight toss on the 1st crux of the famed "Ken T'anks.
Luke Childers coming up with the on-sight toss on ...
Andrew Mathews fighting the swing on the beautiful opening moves of Ken T'anks.
Andrew Mathews fighting the swing on the beautiful...

Comments on Fission aka Ken T'ank Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Aug 12, 2013
By Jim Redo
Oct 22, 2002

I did the first ascent of this route a few years ago. I did not bolt it, but the equipper quit climbing and said have at it. Originally called "Fission" in Rolofson's Clear Creek guide. I don't know where Ken T'ank's came from, but I don't care. A good route.
By Adam Holmes
Oct 22, 2002

Jim, sounds like you did the FA. Did you name the route anything? I named it Ken T'ank based on the name that was written on chalk at the base of the route. That name may refer to the left variation. I don't know. I think in Rolofson's guide the route was called listed as "Fission (AKA: Ken Tanks)".
By piz
Nov 7, 2002

I believe the route was bolted by Tim from Boulder, Hank Caylor and Ken Kenny got the FA after it was bolted, hence the name blending in the three equippers together.
By Anonymous Coward
May 14, 2005

This is a really great route - probably one of the most fun that I have done at this grade in Clear Creek - the movement is superb. The chalked Ken T'ank at the bottom says 12+, that would be a little stouter than the route seemed going through the right set of bolts. The left variation? looks somewhat harder than .12d. It would be nice to know what the left line is. All in all, this one is well worth doing.
By Bill Ballace
From: Pullman,WA
Jul 21, 2007
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

Awsome route! Get on it.
By TWAL
Jul 15, 2008

The name Ken T'ank came from Ken, Tim and Hank. We went up there and moved a misplaced bolt but were not responsible for bolting it. After that all 3 of us did it, 1st Ken then myself (T) and then Hank ('ank). We wrote the name Ken T'ank at the base and rated it .12 b/c someone else apparently thought it to be harder.
Anyway a couple of days later I was talking to Jim Redo only to find out he did it a day or so before us.
Always thought it was a great route. Glad to see others enjoy it as much as we did. I think it would get 3 stars (or 5 depending on your scale) for the grade at any crag.
By j gatchalian
From: denver, co
Nov 2, 2008
rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b

Crux is tough if you're shorter. At 5'7", it was a 3 points off dyno to the sloper. Felt low percentage. Quite stoked to send. Just out of curiosity, is there different beta other than: left hand on the 'block crimp' above the bad jug and right hand on the crimp undercling, work feet up as high as possible, then huck?
By Sam Benedict
From: Denver, CO
May 20, 2009
rating: 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b

Bitchiní route. I think the upper crux is just as difficult as the first but in a tottaly different way. The variation to the left actually looks kind of cool.
By Luke Childers
Sep 27, 2009
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

Great line!! This is one of those special lines you will always revisit. Just a beautiful wall with two exciting cruxes separated by a really cool no hands rest. Best 5.12 I've done in a while. All things being said, however, I felt that a rating of 5.12b would be fitting... after all there is a no hands rest in the middle of the wall and the 1st crux didn't really feel any harder that (V3). But all grade mongering aside... this line is not to be missed!!!
By Mike Humphries
From: Arvada, CO
Sep 28, 2010

While climbing at the Primo area this past weekend (9/26/10), I noticed the good sidepull flake that is usually used to clip the second bolt has broken off of this climb. Any comments on a change in the difficulty of the route without this hold??
By Kaelen Williams
Jan 7, 2011
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Does anyone know if the direct (or leftish) variation has been done yet? I tried it a while ago, it felt hard, at least .13d. I spent two hours on it and could only do half the moves, but maybe I was having a bad day....
By Mr. Nick
Jan 13, 2011

Kaelen, I have tried the variation as well but couldn't really touch it. I have asked around, and as far as I know it still has yet to see an FA, but I wouldn't be surprised someone pipes up and claims they got it. There are some Herculean strong mofos that hang around the Primo area.... If you ended up linking it, I would wouldn't contest the grade of .13/13+-ish.
By Monomaniac
Administrator
From: Morrison, CO
Jan 13, 2011

I think the variation was bolted by Scott Hahn. I don't know if he sent it or not. He has an account here, so someone can PM him to find out....
By Peter Beal
From: Boulder Colorado
Jan 14, 2011

Agree with those who tried this version, which is really old. V10 or harder boulder problem? A bit contrived but definitely worthy.
By Kaelen Williams
Jan 29, 2011
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

I messaged Scott about the variation. He didn't bolt it. Maybe you were thinking of the Gauntlet Direct, which he did bolt.

Anyway, seems like no one has done it yet.
By Jim Redo
Mar 1, 2011

Julian Kinsman bolted both the left and right variations. One bolt was added after the F.A. of the right variation.
By Darren Mabe
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Mar 2, 2011

That's what my notes say, too, Jim. I am pretty sure that Mark would confirm, too.
By Julian Kinsman
Apr 7, 2011

Jimmy - Good to see you are still climbing!
I am glad to see this route is getting climbed. I bolted this shortly after Hot Rocks just up the hill. I was drawn to this rock.
By Jay Samuelson
From: Denver CO
Aug 10, 2011
rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b

The left hand crimp that you usually use to clip bolt two has broken and is slightly smaller now; it doesn't change the grade but makes clipping bolt two a bit more tricky. I stick clipped after climbing up and then back down after I couldn't find a decent stance... what a great route!
By JJNS
Aug 20, 2012
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

A right hand side pull below bolt #2 is about to rip off. We put a giant X on it. At first it feels solid, but as you move higher and pull out on it more it starts to make horrible noises. Most people use it as a foot moving into the crux, so be careful especially so low on the route. You can clip #2 from a low stance if you sneak left to a horn for your left hand and stem your feet up.
By Curt MacNeill
From: Boulder, CO
Apr 4, 2013

This route is freaking awesome. Beautiful setting next to the river where you can't hear any road noise. The route is very cool with a bouldery face crux down low and some rad climbing on the refrigerator block up high. Recommend stick clipping bolt 2 on the route and doing it that way. The bolting on the bottom of the block is a little ridiculous with bolts 2 feet a part from each other. Nonetheless, this thing is worth projecting or doing it as a warm-up for the hard shit over at Primo....
By Natalie Rose
Aug 12, 2013
rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b

Just a heads up for short people: Felt pretty hard for my height - 5'2". Solid 12c. I think the refrigerator block was the hardest part for me. Burly boy climb but fun.