Hidden amongst the trees deceptively close to the parking lot lies a couple of moderately large cliffs that contain good, but scary highball bouldering on often less than desirable landings. This is the South Rock.
The South Rock contains 25 foot high bouldering from V0 to V4, with potential for harder routes if someone insane enough comes along with the gusto to make damn sure they finish the highball route they've started. This place definately ranks near the top in unprotectable bouldering landings. Imagine a steep terracy hillside full of slippery pine needles and the occasional rock. No amount of crashpads will completely remove the risk from a high fall.
Otherwise - Sandstone bouldering fun... Mmmm!!! Rock on the South Rock is quite good in quality, and the v2 traverse (The Fisk Mill Traverse) is reasonably safe and a quality 75 foot uphill route.
This rock is also always in the shade, so if it's too hot at the beach and you don't want to brave the rocky beach for a swim, wander over to the bouldering of Fisk Mill Cove.
All routes walk off the top.
Approach time: 4 minutes.
From the second northmost parking lot: Follow the sign west out of the parking lot for the bluffs trail. Walk about 50 yards, where you will pick up the bluffs trail heading South (left). Walk along the trail about 200 yards past a bridge that passes over the creek, and you'll see the North Rock in the foreground, and the south rock in the background and uphill. Pick up the climbers trail heading left from the bluffs trail as the trail gets close to the North Rock. Walk Around the rightside of the North Rock (or climb it!) and you're at the South Rock.
It's also possible to pick up the Bluffs Trail from the South.
Start at the bottom right and work your way left. This is a long strenuous problem. Thankfully there are enough rests along the way that you should be able to get throught the problem with only a few rough spots....[more]Browse More Classics in CA
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The rock is really nice and the climbs are fun. The only downside is that the landings are deadly. Luckily it is not hard to set a top rope from the trees at the top of the rock. Don't let the height or the bad landings stop you from checking it out.