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P1- Climb through moss, moss, and more moss. Most footholds and handholds are covered but luckily the climbing is easy slab. When you reach a stained black alcove, you face the crux as you pull up and over the alcove on trickier holds to the 1st chains. Look to your right for a nail driven into the face. Donít remove the nail! It was found during the first ascent and is the namesake of the climb.
P2- The second pitch is better than the first. Donít be scared by the language in the guidebooks. You pull two distinct bulges on this pitch, but you can reach up high and clip bolts on both of them before you even step on. They are steep but well protected.
P3- This is a stellar pitch! It is the airiest by far, so enjoy the exposure. The pitch is steep, the rock is clean, and the holds are watermelons. Again, the protection is good. Continue to either one of two sets of chains 30M up.
P4- Not really a pitch. A 10 foot 4th class scramble to the top of the formation. Rope up if you desire and belay from one of the two poles on top. Bring slings. Walk off the west side of the formation and follow a steep trail back down into the Middle Fork.
Wander across the bridge towards Left Fork. Before you reach the Pictograph Wall, take a right and hike a few hundred feet up along the base of Dizzy Rock until you see the first bolt.
15 quickdraws to chains.
|By Matt Selman|
From: Spring City, Utah
Jan 8, 2013
Some older topos and guides have given this route an R rating; this refers to the route as it was originally bolted. Jason Stevens, the first ascensionist, returned in 2012 to add a few bolts, removing the R rating. Very worthwhile for the awesome exposed jug haul on the third pitch headwall.
|By Jason Stevens|
From: Ephraim, UT
Feb 8, 2013
I second Matts sentiments. The "dangers" in the original description were WAY over exaggerated. And I made improvements to the route AFTER DK wrote his guide. This route is a mighty fine romp, well protected. No X anywhere on the route. Dont miss it!!!