Even though the guidebook says this is a good route, I was skeptical. But the rock was clean, the moves were fun from the beginning, and the end was thrilling. Take a moment to look around while you are doing it - the position is fantastic. I ended up being really impressed.
I think this is one of the most fun 5.10's I've been on at Smith, and a great way to warm up for the fun elevens and 12's on the Shipwreck Wall.
The upper Shipwreck Wall ends in a crumbling ampitheater. If you follow the rock from Shipwreck to the right, this is the first solid piece of stone you find. Look for a bolted seam/flake/crack with a subtle-looking overhang at the top.
As far as safety goes, keep an eye out for the last three bolts. There may not have been a way to bolt it better, but the bolting feels a bit off at the top. If you take some falls, you should be fine, but take care. It would be easy for someone unaccustomed to overhangs to wrap their leg around the rope, and some of the harder moves risk falls that would need to be deliberate (be aware of where you will land). Belayers should be solid.
If you have been leading for a while, don't let this dissuade you, I'm probably being overcautious.
bolts, roughly 10
Looking up at Fish 'n Chips from the base.
|By DJ Reyes|
From: Northern Nevada
Jul 13, 2010
It's been a while, but I remember this route being quite a treat. A great route on great rock and in a great location. Get thee up the gully.
|By Brent Apgar|
From: Out of the Loop
May 14, 2011
Psyched to see this one added to the data base, it's definitely worth the walk.
|By Paul Trendler|
From: Bend, Oregon
Feb 14, 2012
First time up it was awesome! Second time I popped a few small feet off, but overall it's a really fun route.