Fish Corner  

If anyone has any information on this route or think I have been mistaken on something please let me know. This is an awesome route but could use one more bolt to protect the crux. I got some of the information from the comments made on the page for Anchovy Caper.

Mark or Ed told me you could just stick clip the first bolt and have at it. or do what you said and lower off Anchovy and put a draw on that bolt and clip your rope to it on the way down.

you would need a very long stick clip... longer than mine anyway... with all bolts in this wall why do this route this way instead of putting in one more?

I agree with Lee, this route is one bolt from becoming fairly popular, it would be good to have another .10 in this area for busy days.

or get a longer pole...

I certainly see where Matt and Lee are coming from, thinning the crowds is good. BUT I think it is nice to have a .10 like this at Main Left where it takes a certain level of commitment, and you get that "don't fall now" feeling.

I would love to see a lower 1st glue-in on this climb. Looks like nature is slowly reclaiming it with almost no traffic whatsoever on it. A shame.

If cost is an issue, let's talk.

Don't you think it can be very easily TRed, and thereby not giving the rock a pin cushion effect? The bolt is more as a directional for that. I think we figured if people really wanted to lead it, they could figure how to get it clipped. The lower corner isn't really that interesting. The highball spicyness as a boulder problem is what made it intriguing to me. Personally, I like the easy climbing above that was originally a variation to Anchovy better. It makes a nice solo up to the ledge.

If people really want a lower bolt and somebody has the skill to put a good quality bolt in, have at it. My drill and bolting kit is about 6 miles out in the woods, so I don't think I will be carrying it out to do it any time soon. Just make sure the bolt or a draw hanging from it wont get in the way when climbing. Maybe scrub it up and boulder it first to see if you really think it needs a bolt.

Didn't have a pad or experienced spotter today.
Since I do not have the expertise to place a lower glue-in, I will try to find a long enough stick to lay at the base of this climb/problem. Perhaps this will get people to try out the climb w/o needing to get on Anchovy Caper first (so that one can place a draw on the high bolt on lower from A.C.).
I guess my point is nature will reclaim the line and the glue-ins already placed if the climb never sees any traffic. That would be a shame and the fine effort and quality glue-ins that went into this climb would go to waste.

I was able to solo past the first bolt of Anchovy Caper, then climb over into the dihedral and stick clip the first bolt of this.

In the new guidebook this is not rated R. Have some bolts been added?

No. It is expected that you would stick clip the high bolt(or just boulder it with pads and a spotter)

I attempted to stick clip the first bolt yesterday. I am 6 feet tall with long arms and had a 10 foot stick clip. Still not tall enough. If you are going to try this route, be prepared to either boulder the crux or repel down to preclip the first bolt.

I also think this is deserving of a lower, stick-clippable bolt. The corner is quite fun, and I think the reason no one climbs it is because all the bolts are after the crux!

Mark, does the bolt need to be a glue-in?

It probably should be. It is Rumney after all. Non-glue-ins seem to loosen up pretty quickly there, especially crux first bolts. Maybe you can bribe Smitty to do it. I think he has the technology. I'm still busy developing "the New Rumney" before it gets out, so I won't be able to get to it any time soon.

If one were to put a bolt in that can be clipped after the first move, so your feet are ~5 or 6 feet off the ground, would that be high enough that there would be no ground fall potential between the new bolt and the current lowest bolt?

A great candidate for your first 5.10, because a stick-clip is all you need to protect the crux. Put both hands on a good crimp about 1 foot above head height, get both feet on a ledge below the bulge, and fire for the box-shaped jug (hard bouldery move)! The rest of the corner is about 5.7 ish, and the slabs above are probably 5.1 or so. Despite that this is a "one move wonder" route, I feel another lower bolt in the corner would make this much more popular. If you're not comfortable leading a 5.10, do Anchovie Caper first and toprope this(they share an anchor).

Also, does anybody know of any other good 5.10's that share an anchor with an easier route and can be toproped easily?

3 things:
1.NICE JOB :)
2.most stick clips wont reach the first bolt as has been discussed at length above...
3.the first thing that comes to mind for the 5.10 you are looking for is to climb the Digger-Bug link up (5.8) then top rope Gold Bug 5.10 c/d... fun stuff... there are others im sure, ill get back to you when i think more...

By the 'Digger-Bug' linkup, do you mean climb Gold Digger to the chains, then traverse left onto Goldbug, or do you traverse left earlier?

"Digger-bug (5.8)" is a popular link up that does the 1st 2/3 of Gold Digger (5.8+) but then where that route has a puzzling step right (crux) you instead clip the last two bolts of Gold Bug (5.10c/d) out to your left as you climb up the very pleasant stemming corner above to the Gold Bug Anchors... This has become a popular moderate option and proves to be an easy way to set a toprope Gold Bug (5.10c/d)...

thats basically a route description for what im talking about and i will copy it to the Gold Digger description for all to see :)