Fish and Chips 5.9+
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 115 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.9+ [details] |
| FA: | D. Mabe, 3/05 |
| New Route: | Yes |
| Submitted By: | Darren Mabe on May 18, 2005 |
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BETA PHOTO: South Creek Side Wall:
F. Rhett Wench, 11+, 2p.
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Description Yummmmy!
Fish and Chips is the left of two routes that start from the belay pod on the south-facing Creek Side Wall. Approach by tyrol (see comments under Creek Side area description).
This is another fun and long route with great photo potential from the road. Follow bolts over quality stone up to the huge, left-facing dihedral above. Stem the dihedral and eventually work on to the arete on big positive flakes to a small ledge and anchors (115' exactly). The moves climbing on the arete may seem stiff for 5.9, but the holds are big.
You can continue up and left past the anchors to another set where you can rap/lower to the start of P2 of Rhett Wench. However, you will not be able to lower back to the pod from the high anchors.
Fantastic exposure and fun climbing!
Protection 12 protection bolts and 2 bolt lowering anchor. 70 meter rope.
Greg at anchor.
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Belay pod to anchor.
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John Morgan starting up the "Creek Side" classic.....
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| Comments on Fish and Chips |
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By Jerome Stiller
From: Golden CO
May 18, 2005
| Another fun long-ish Mabe route (yeah, I climb some with Darren but I'm not his butt-boy, nor he mine, no matter what he tells ya!). I thought it was more .10a/b when I first lead it, but I TR'd it last night and all the holds are big and right there, so yeah, 9+ seems about right. |
By Kim
May 31, 2005
rating: 5.10a
| This route is a blast! I think the initial lead rating is more like 5.10a due to the steepness, but it probably won't seem as hard the second time around. I recommend it! |
By adampeters
From: Golden, Colorado
Jul 5, 2007
rating: 5.9+
| By the way, Fish and Chips along with the sidekick route Guppy may be two of the best moderate sport routes of their grade in Front Range, let alone the canyon. Great stone, great exposure, long, and freaking heaven for anyone who loves to rock climb. I have yet to take someone across the river that hasn't had a memorable experience. |
By OkieGirl
From: Boulder finally
Jul 21, 2008
| I loved this route but I'm curious... how do you go about NOT getting your rope stuck pulling it from these anchors?? |
By Rob Westfall
From: Denver, CO
Jul 19, 2009
rating: 5.9+
| Rookie day for me at Creekside - what a gem! 60m rope was fine for us - just had to gank the belay anchors for P2 of Rhett Wench on the way down...mind the rafters/kayakers cause the second rap will get your rope wet! |
By Mike Kasberg
From: Denver, CO
Jul 25, 2010
rating: 5.9+
| Great route. Climbed it with a 60m and just made it down to the belay pod. There are 2 sets of anchors at the top, about 15 ft apart. Clip the lower anchors for a 60m, and knot your ends.
When pulling your rope down, you can hook it over the tyrolean to prevent most of it from falling in the creek, but our end still went in. |
By Erik Hatlestad
Nov 21, 2011
| Climbed it today. Everything was great. The bolt path is perfect. Missed the last bolt as I went left instead of right, but no big deal. Fantastic route, and as always the tyrol is quite exciting! |
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