100 yards before (S) the first tunnel is a diminutive crag on the left (W) side of the road that features two short but high quality moderates. The Crag gets morning sun, and afternoon shade. This crag gets shade earlier than most of the other left-side routes, so is a good option once The Broken Arrows start to get sunny and hot. This cliff is right on the road, so expect a large number of near-proximity gawkers.
Park at various pullouts before or after the crag, near the first tunnel. Walk down or up the road, depending on where you park. Routes start literally four feet from the road.
2 Total Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',0],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
Featured Route For First Tunnel
Racial Tension 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII E2 5b NM
: Jemez Valley Area
: ... : First Tunnel
This technical line ascends the wide black streak right of Roadside Distraction. This route is a waterfall when it rains, so keep that in mind. The route begins with an easy scramble up chossy ledges, before rearing up to near vertical. Long reaches between good crimps ascend the mossy wall to a crux near the top. Fortunately virtually all of the key holds have been scrubbed free of moss, so the route is not as mossy as it appears....[more] Browse More Classics in NM
Latest Regional Forum Messages
From: Morrison, CO
Sep 17, 2007
Note that the map on p. 33 of Jemez Rock has the location or the names of the two routes on this wall confused. The 5.8 is the S-most route, and the 5.10 is the N-most.
|By Lee H|
Jul 16, 2009
I was at gillman tunnels a few weeks ago looking for these two routes. Do they exist still? We saw no bolts on the wall that is literally right before the first tunnel. We saw kind of what looked like holes where bolts might have been cut off and covered with epoxy or something (though we could have possibly been looking in the wrong place, and imagined the epoxy).