Climbing "Roadside Distraction", 5.8 at the First ...
100 yards before (S) the first tunnel is a diminutive crag on the left (W) side of the road that features two short but high quality moderates. The Crag gets morning sun, and afternoon shade. This crag gets shade earlier than most of the other left-side routes, so is a good option once The Broken Arrows start to get sunny and hot. This cliff is right on the road, so expect a large number of near-proximity gawkers.
Park at various pullouts before or after the crag, near the first tunnel. Walk down or up the road, depending on where you park. Routes start literally four feet from the road.
Featured Route For First Tunnel
: Jemez Valley Area
: ... : First Tunnel
One of the best moderates at Gilman, this route ascends a blunt, low-angled arete on fine stone. Begin with an easy scramble up somewhat chossy ledges before heading left onto the arete. At midheight the boltline tries to force the route up the right side of the buttress, but the climbing is easiest up the slab on the left....[more] Browse More Classics in NM
From: Morrison, CO
Sep 17, 2007
Note that the map on p. 33 of Jemez Rock has the location or the names of the two routes on this wall confused. The 5.8 is the S-most route, and the 5.10 is the N-most.
|By Lee H|
Jul 16, 2009
I was at gillman tunnels a few weeks ago looking for these two routes. Do they exist still? We saw no bolts on the wall that is literally right before the first tunnel. We saw kind of what looked like holes where bolts might have been cut off and covered with epoxy or something (though we could have possibly been looking in the wrong place, and imagined the epoxy).