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First trip to the RED
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Oct 4, 2012
NickinCO wrote:
watch out for lizards.. had one crawl up my hand and off my elbow on lead while climbing arrowhead LOL. I didn't think bedtime for bonzo was that great, and I don't remember a lot of other good stuff in that area. That was in spring though and there was a ton of new growth everywhere so maybe it cleans up better throughout the summer and into the fall.



I remember that! You were topping out right?
ClimbingPirate
Joined Jan 30, 2008
172 points
Oct 4, 2012
Hi Boots:

I posted a similar question (regarding a slightly harder grade numerically, although the one time I climbed at Devil's Lake, 30 years ago, the grades seemed pretty stout) this spring and got some helpful answers, here
mountainproject.com/v/rrg-favo...
Have fun! We sure did...
EDIT: If (likely "when", given that you're looking for moderates) you climb at Muir Valley, please strongly consider donating some cash, they are really giving an incredible gift to the climbing community down there.
Optimistic
From New Paltz
Joined Aug 29, 2007
246 points
Oct 4, 2012
Got Milk? How about forearm pump? Tony leads "...
Alex Mitchell wrote:
Any wall with multible moderate sport lines are going to be gang banged this time of year. There is really no TR lines at the Red. You have to lead them and set a TR.

Agree with the former, disagree with the latter.
So go to a wall with moderate trad, IE:
Fortress Wall

Once there, access the mid-cliff ledge and SET TR's as you like, but all with trad gear and long slings. There will be others around, but if you are flexible about what you climb on, you'll find open lines 5.6-5.8.
Tony B
From Around Boulder, CO
Joined Jan 1, 2001
23,590 points
Oct 4, 2012
Me Climbing
Nick Evans wrote:
I'm also taking a trip to the red, but I am going during rocktober fest. Not the best planning for privacy but hell, it's THE RED and I only have Sat, Sun and Mon. My question: What can I expect from Rocktoberfest? I wanna hit Long Wall, PMRP, and military wall to climb .8-.10 trad and .9-.12 sport classics. Will I be able to find a parking spot anywhere? Will I be able to find any open routes? Am I stupid for trying to go to these popular walls? I also know about the climbing comp at PMRP on Sat. so I assume it will be packed. Can I get access without joining the comp? I might try the trad destinations on the weekend and PMRP on Mon to avoid crowds.


Parking will not be to big a deal and if it is you do not want to be climbing there. If you climb that hard you will be able to find plenty of routes. Long Wall does not get to terribly busy, however Military would be a good wall not to go to on the weekend. PMRP is still open during the comp and has a ton of routes so you should be fine there also.
Alex Mitchell
From Cincinnati, OH
Joined May 14, 2012
1,649 points
Oct 4, 2012
Chew toyed
nobody goes there anymore, it's too crowded... James Arnold
From Chattanooga
Joined Dec 21, 2008
71 points
Oct 4, 2012
after the hard stuff, into cruiser hands.
MattG. wrote:
I remember that! You were topping out right?


haha yep, almost fell backwards! That sport route we lead on gear was pretty awesome, don't remember the name of it though!
NickinCO
From colorado
Joined Sep 17, 2010
239 points
Oct 5, 2012
NickinCO wrote:
haha yep, almost fell backwards! That sport route we lead on gear was pretty awesome, don't remember the name of it though!



Eureka 5.6! Way more fun on trad!
ClimbingPirate
Joined Jan 30, 2008
172 points
Oct 5, 2012
Goofin on the Frogs Head Arch before I rap off.
James Arnold wrote:
nobody goes there anymore, it's too crowded...


If no one goes there how can it be crowded?
Boots Ylectric
From Roselle IL
Joined Apr 11, 2012
155 points
Oct 5, 2012
Got Milk? How about forearm pump? Tony leads "...
Boots Ylectric wrote:
If no one goes there how can it be crowded?

He's just quoting Yogi Berra.
Tony B
From Around Boulder, CO
Joined Jan 1, 2001
23,590 points
Oct 5, 2012
Chew toyed
There are some people who, if they don't already know, you can't tell 'em.... James Arnold
From Chattanooga
Joined Dec 21, 2008
71 points
Oct 5, 2012
Hit up long wall on your first trad day for sure. Rock wars and autumn are def worth it. I usually run up them twice each time I'm there. If you want a good adventure trad route try jungle beat at the military wall. jeremy o
From TN
Joined Jun 5, 2011
0 points
Oct 6, 2012
Got Milk? How about forearm pump? Tony leads "...
jeremy o wrote:
Hit up long wall on your first trad day for sure. Rock wars and autumn are def worth it. I usually run up them twice each time I'm there. If you want a good adventure trad route try jungle beat at the military wall.

Jungle Beat is not for a crowd or for Noobs, but it is a great route for sure.
Tony B
From Around Boulder, CO
Joined Jan 1, 2001
23,590 points


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