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First Trad Lead report!
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By AlanJ
From Longmont, CO
Mar 3, 2013
Thats me after a pretty stiff 5.7 or as the locals have come to call it...a lake 5.7

I've wondered since I got into the sport 2 years ago if I would ever be ready for leading trad while top roping. I always looked at the devil dancers of trad. at Devils lake often in aw and respect. Well, I finally had my day in boulder canyon on boulderado wall. It wasn't a hard climb, it wasn't a technical climb, but it was my first trad climb, first trad lead, and first lead ever, and I could be more happy about it. I went up with a full rack of nuts and hexes and spent through nearly all of them. I had two pieces walk because I ran out of long draws. I can't thank some of the experts enough on this website for your advice on gear, climbs, and technique just to further the sport and help people out.


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By AlanJ
From Longmont, CO
Mar 3, 2013
Thats me after a pretty stiff 5.7 or as the locals have come to call it...a lake 5.7

First trad climb
First trad climb


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By Ben Brotelho
From Albany, NY
Mar 3, 2013
Epic free solo with a pack on

nice!!!


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By AlanJ
From Longmont, CO
Mar 3, 2013
Thats me after a pretty stiff 5.7 or as the locals have come to call it...a lake 5.7

with a 100 lb belayer...I knew if shit hit the fan than a soft catch was sure to happen
with a 100 lb belayer...I knew if shit hit the fan than a soft catch was sure to happen


Post Celebration...without I don't know if I would have made it.
Post Celebration...without I don't know if I would have made it.


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By SteveZ
From Denver, CO
Mar 3, 2013
Lion King with the pup.

Thanks for sharing the psyche!


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By KristineK
From Atlanta, GA
Mar 3, 2013

Awesome! That sounds like a familiar story except I still feel pretty far from my first trad lead. Thanks for the inspiration!


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By Brian Hudson
From Greenville, SC
Mar 4, 2013
Valor Over Discretion (5.8), RRG

hell yeah man! welcome to the sharp end!


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By AlanJ
From Longmont, CO
Mar 4, 2013
Thats me after a pretty stiff 5.7 or as the locals have come to call it...a lake 5.7

Thanks guys and thank you John for some good entry future trad leads that are in the area. I'll be looking for those this coming weekend with hopefully some better stories. Maybe I can talk my girlfriend into belaying topless or something haha.


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By seth0687
From Fort Collins
Mar 4, 2013
Leading the first ice pitch of the NW Gully-Thatchtop

Congrats man, greatest feeling ever.....NOW WHAT?


ELDO!!


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By Austin Baird
From SLC, Utah
Mar 4, 2013
Me scaring years off my mom's life

Congrats man!


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By AlanJ
From Longmont, CO
Mar 4, 2013
Thats me after a pretty stiff 5.7 or as the locals have come to call it...a lake 5.7

I really want to get down to eldo! Went on a hike there to check out the climbing and was blown away. My goal is just to do more single trad climbing, anchor placements + anchor building, and work hard on self-rescue techniques, then move to the multi-pitch! Multi-pitch trad is my goal before the year is out. I just don't to be one of those guys where my partner gets a sprained ankle and we have to declare an emergency. I hate reading stories about those guys where it was very possible for a self rescue but they just didn't know how. I don't want to be one of those guys.


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By seth0687
From Fort Collins
Mar 4, 2013
Leading the first ice pitch of the NW Gully-Thatchtop

You sounds wise beyond your years my man. But don't be afraid to look at many of the first pitches in Eldo, and there are some great beginner leads that are single pitch with raps from trees etc...That is where I cut my teeth for what it is worth.

Seth


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By Clifton Santiago
Mar 4, 2013

AlanJ wrote:
I really want to get down to eldo! Went on a hike there to check out the climbing and was blown away. My goal is just to do more single trad climbing, anchor placements + anchor building, and work hard on self-rescue techniques, then move to the multi-pitch! Multi-pitch trad is my goal before the year is out. I just don't to be one of those guys where my partner gets a sprained ankle and we have to declare an emergency. I hate reading stories about those guys where it was very possible for a self rescue but they just didn't know how. I don't want to be one of those guys.

Sweet! Don't worry man, no one here knows how to rescue a second balls simlple 3 pitches up t2 . Do until you cannot.
Solo the 1st
belay 2 seconds on Cobb
Race up McGregor w the biggest gumbo you know
Pretend like you know, til you don't, then find out
Climb on!


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By Murdo
Mar 4, 2013

Eff yeah! That was my first real trad lead as well. Good work and keep up the stoke.


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By Ethan Henderson
From Silverdale, WA
Mar 4, 2013
aliens

Nice man!
Remember, trad is rad!


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By Travis Senor
From Mailing Address in NC
Mar 4, 2013
Profile photo, exhaustion after a long day on Rainier.

Congrats man! I just broke into this last season as well. Awesome feeling.


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By AlanJ
From Longmont, CO
Mar 4, 2013
Thats me after a pretty stiff 5.7 or as the locals have come to call it...a lake 5.7

Damn, i'd be down for that idea if I just didn't buy an entire set of C4's minus the big#6. Piss!


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By Michael C
From New Jersey
Mar 4, 2013
Mt Minsi, PA

awesome. congrats on your first lead. stay safe.


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By Brian Hudson
From Greenville, SC
Mar 4, 2013
Valor Over Discretion (5.8), RRG

AlanJ wrote:
Damn, i'd be down for that idea if I just didn't buy an entire set of C4's minus the big#6. Piss!


hooray for new gear!
hooray for new gear!


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By AlanJ
From Longmont, CO
Mar 4, 2013
Thats me after a pretty stiff 5.7 or as the locals have come to call it...a lake 5.7

HAHA that's an awesome card. Maybe if I invest in scratch-offs and lotto tickets I can buy a full set of Black Diamond X4's when they come out.


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By Kilroywashere!
From Harrisonburg, Virginia
Mar 16, 2013
Kilroy

awesome, looks like a fun climb for sure, props on doing your first in the snow, what route was it?


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By Jon Zucco
From Denver, CO
Mar 16, 2013
yaak crack Red Rock Canyon, NV

Kilroywashere! wrote:
awesome, looks like a fun climb for sure, props on doing your first in the snow, what route was it?


looks like ho hum, 5.4


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By Jeff G.
From Fort Collins
Mar 16, 2013
Nearing the end of Thank God Ledge.

Good job!


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By ShireSmitty
From Boulda
Mar 16, 2013

nice man, gettin after it! come on over to eldo. lots of easy classics to learn on


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By Mr. Holmes
From Cascade West
Mar 16, 2013
#2

much more positive than some of my first... watching stoppers pull 8 feet below... nice work!


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