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First trad lead climb in j-tree?
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By Daniel Evans
From Twentynine Palms, CA
Mar 28, 2013

Going try my first trad lead climb tomorrow in j-tree nat park. anyone know of few 5.6's and 5.7's that are fairly close to each that I could spend the day practicing on? looking for 2-3 routes 5.6 - 5.7 within 10-15 min drive of eachother. Thanks guys.


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By Justin Tomlinson
From Monrovia, CA
Mar 28, 2013
Summit of Mt. Langley

Dress Rehearsal (or Practice Rehearsal in the guidebooks) on Playhouse Rock is pretty mellow. If I recall correctly, the pro is good.


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By Sirius
From Oakland, CA
Mar 28, 2013
Moving through the crux lock - now that's micro beta for you, that is.

I'd head to Hidden Valley campground, park, and climb the moderates there. Toe Jam was my first lead in JTree.


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By John D
Mar 28, 2013

I'd say hidden valley campground is good, there's the bong, toe jam, overhang bypass, you can probably climb a full day of 5.6-5.7


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By matt carpenter
From Las Vegas
Mar 28, 2013
focusing on the feet... mid-crux on El Camino Real.

I would say do "the bong" as your first trad lead; but that requires an exposed class 4 down climb; so if you are not comfortable with that go across the road over to thin wall and check out the easy stuff in in real hidden valley


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By Mark Mueller
From Flagstaff, AZ
Mar 29, 2013
Great quality rock on this one!

5.6 and 5.7 isn't always necessarily 'easy' for JTree standards


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By Robbie Brown
From Flagstaff, AZ
Mar 29, 2013
Jumping across the mace gap with a PBR

+1 for hidden valley campground and the bong.

Had like 5 people get first lead on the bong. Great 5.5 hand crack
others in hidden valley.

double cross 5.7
toe jam 5.7
buissonier 5.7
overhang bypass

the list goes on....


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By Christopher Gibson
From Frisco, Texas
Mar 29, 2013
Changing leads.

Trash Can Rock in Qauil Springs just pass main entrance on right hand side, four routes right next to each other and your partner can belay from the car and you can walk off and repeat. Not classics but not as unforgiving as say Double Cross. + 1 for 5.7 does not mean easy at J Tree.

Oh, before I get flamed, these arent 5.7's. But has been the site of many a first trad lead.


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By Dave Von Behren
Mar 29, 2013

the chief www.mountainproject.com/v/the-chief/105724168
french flies www.mountainproject.com/v/french-flies/105725890
pattaguchi


for a new leader, double cross and toe jam are no bueno.


Those i listed are safe and good leads, with bolted raps for less cluster.

patagucchi is a walk off.


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By Luis Orozco
From Covina, CA
Mar 29, 2013

The Atlantis wall has great beginner leads. Toe jam was one of my first leads and plenty protection below the 5.7 jam at the top. If you want to climb double cross and never done a crack climb id recommend sexy grandma which and top rope double cross. I fell after I followed and was glad I didn't lead as I didnt have crack climbing technique


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By Joe De Luca
From yucca valley
Mar 29, 2013
railroad gin v0 FA. JOE DE LUCA

double cross had a pool of blood at the start last Monday not a good first lead at all. go out to Atlantis Wall there are 9 good easy climbs one can do as a first lead. good luck


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By Greg G
From SLC, UT
Mar 29, 2013
The route in it's entirety.

Do white lightning on the hemingway buttress!


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By Christian "crisco" Burrell
From PG, Utah
Mar 29, 2013
Our less than official sponsor!

Trashcan Rock is a good call for a first lead. Several very moderate options with good pro.
In the camp Toe Jam +1 for me.
Avoid Double Cross as a first lead!!!


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By Christopher Gibson
From Frisco, Texas
Mar 29, 2013
Changing leads.

Yeah and afterwards if your comfortable sporting 10's and your feeling ballzy you can jump on the 5.8 Cranny which was my first 5.8 lead. Will never forget that climb, I got halfway up that short stout route, got the Elvis Legs going on from the stemming, hands shaking, I yelled to my belayer that I needed to get off this thing and decided that it was better to finish than come down.

Good Times!!!


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By Daniel Evans
From Twentynine Palms, CA
Apr 3, 2013

So I actually headed over to Thin Wall, and lead "Almost Vertical" (5.7) and "Chocolate is better then sex" (5.9). Both of these climbs felt very easy to me, the 5.9 route having one tricky move in the beginning but otherwise sustained 5.6 (I felt like per jtree standards) the rest of the way up. The guy I climb with TR's 5.10's and leads 5.8's and most 5.9's legitimately so he's a lot better then me. So I've got to TR a good chunk of the classic routes here in jtree and Chocolate is better than sex did not feel like a 5.9 to me let alone a 5.7. I thought Toe Jam was more technical.


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By JohnnyG
Apr 3, 2013

Hey - thanks for the report. I like it when people report back on how the advice worked, how the trip went.

Anyway, about ratings feeling soft...I found that at j-tree, I could never really predict how hard the lower-rated climbs will be based on the rating. For example, a climb rated 5.7 could be wicked hard or dirt simple.

But from about 5.10 and up, the ratings seem more precise.


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By superkick
From West Hartford, CT
Apr 4, 2013
Free Solo up hitchcock gully WI3

Can anyone reocmmend some really good trad leads that arent crack climbing? Yes I know jtree is a ton of crack climbing...but mostly going for some fun/challenging sport climbs with friends.

Im heading for the first time next week and am a pretty confident leader up to 5.8/5.9 gunks ratings, but dont have very much crack climbing experience.

Suggestions are welcome. Ill climb anything long as its fun.


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By Guy Keesee
From Moorpark, CA
Apr 4, 2013
Big Boulder, just a bit downhill from Temple of Kali. Alabama Hills, CA.

You might wish to try upper right ski track....

EZ climbing with good pro....

have fun


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By superkick
From West Hartford, CT
Apr 4, 2013
Free Solo up hitchcock gully WI3

Guy Keesee wrote:
You might wish to try upper right ski track.... EZ climbing with good pro.... have fun


thanks for the info... beginner crack climbs are def wlecome, though id like to get on some harder 5.8-5.9 non crack climbs as well. Gotta start somewhere learning how to hand jam though. ill prob check that out


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By alleyehave
From San Diego, CA
Apr 4, 2013
Start of Pitch 3

superkick, check out Gargoyle...a 'splitter' hand crack that takes pro the entire way. def tape up, but a great climb to hone your hand jamming skills...albeit short :/


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By Jorge Gonzalez
From San Gabriel, CA
Apr 4, 2013

Atlantis Wall past Lost Horse wall, lots of short moderates, also capable of top ropes.

On Intersection Rock don't forget Bat Crack (5.5) and Mike's Books (5.6). Both have highly enjoyable parts and get you off the ground, especially the former.

Echo Rocks has Double Dip (5.6) with a large layback flake which is very doable and fun, leading to a run-out face with lots of features (plus you can't see the bottom), very fun, and Stichter Quits (5.7) which feels harder at the start (with an almost bouldery type move at a bolt), but very fun and sustained all the way to the top.

But then you did your first lead a week ago, this is just more fun for the making, and probably helpful to the rest of you noobies reading this and salivating.

Trust me, these are much better first leads than Double Cross, which has seen fatalities.


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By austin luper
From Fayetteville
Apr 4, 2013
shes a beaut

You should check out the Dairy Queen wall and rock garden valley for some fun 5.7's


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By C Miller
Administrator
Apr 4, 2013
High Desert Sunrise, Joshua Tree NP

Here's a list of 47 sport climbs from 5.8 to 5.9+ with at least two stars -


mountainproject.com/scripts/Search.php?searchType=routeFinde>>>


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By superkick
From West Hartford, CT
Apr 5, 2013
Free Solo up hitchcock gully WI3

C Miller wrote:
Here's a list of 47 sport climbs from 5.8 to 5.9+ with at least two stars - mountainproject.com/scripts/Search.php?searchType=routeFinde>>>






non crack 5.8-5.9 trad. not sport.


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By C Miller
Administrator
Apr 5, 2013
High Desert Sunrise, Joshua Tree NP

superkick wrote:
non crack 5.8-5.9 trad. not sport.


All that leaves is runout Joshua Tree style face climbs which, coming from The Gunks, it's unlikely you'll enjoy. Here's a few ideas to get you going:

Walk on the Wild Side (5.8)
Bish (5.8)
The Sound of One Shoe Tapping (5.8)
Buckets to Burbank (5.8)
Electralux (5.8)
Breakfast of Champions (5.8+)
ZZZZZ (5.9)
Sexy Grandma (5.9)
Enchanted Stairway (5.9 R)
Stick to What (5.9 R)
Negro Girls (5.9 R)
Dazed and Confused (5.9)


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By superkick
From West Hartford, CT
Apr 5, 2013
Free Solo up hitchcock gully WI3

C Miller wrote:
All that leaves is runout Joshua Tree style face climbs which, coming from The Gunks, it's unlikely you'll enjoy. Here's a few ideas to get you going: Walk on the Wild Side (5.8) Bish (5.8) Buckets to Burbank (5.8) ZZZZZ (5.9)



Thanks!


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