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The Far East
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Alesia T,S 
El Chupacabra S 
Emotional Content S 
Filthy Sanchez S 
First Time Up T 
Full Yellow Jacket S 
Gracie's Eight S 
Horseshoes and Hand Grenades S 
King Kong S 
Kinky Boots S 
Montezuma's Toe S 
Orange Crush S 
Pieces of Eight S 
Plumb Bob S 
Purple Nehi S 
Recidivist S 
September Hero S 
Spine Tingler S 
Supersoul Sureshot S 
Tough Gong S 
Vodka Diet, The T 
Unsorted Routes:

First Time Up 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
Page Views: 743
Submitted By: Andrew Tower on Jul 4, 2007  with updates from Gokul

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (13)
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BETA PHOTO: This photo shows a climber midway up the route, st...


Climbs the dihedral to the right of Emotional Content. Sort of loose and a little scary. Pro is pretty good in most spots, but the anchor I remember being a little tricky although there was one bolt I used as part of it.

After bringing up the second I think we walked over and rapped off the Emotional Content anchors


assortment of gear. Small cams, i don't think I used anything larger than a #2 camalot

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By Elijah Flenner
Sep 16, 2007

I don't think this is First Time Up, but rather the climb called Manked in the Chad Watkins and Tom Hancock guide book.

By Rodion
Feb 3, 2008

This is not First Time Up. First Time Up is the quite classic hand-to-fist crack left of Horseshoes and Hand Grenades.

By Scott Strong
From: Dallas, TX
May 30, 2011

The guidebook says standard rack, doubles #2-4. From the bottom the top half looked protectable with #2s but I found that it really requires mostly 3s and 4s to protect the climb. Long runners are a good idea too.

By michaeltarne
Mar 4, 2012

First Time Up is a great route, uses big gear almost the whole way- I never placed anything smaller than a BD#2. Great flake, good rock and good pro everywhere except a short stretch in the middle.

By Andrew Sellers
From: Dallas, TX
May 30, 2012
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c

Recommend a C4 #6 in the middle corner, runout the crux, and protect up by the jug shaped like an L, if you get tired, you can sling your rope there while you protect. A double arm bar will provide a great rest at the offwidth section.