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The Far East
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First Time Up 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c [details]
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Page Views: 683
Submitted By: Andrew Tower on Jul 4, 2007
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BETA PHOTO: This photo shows a climber midway up the route, st...

Description 

Climbs the dihedral to the right of Emotional Content. Sort of loose and a little scary. Pro is pretty good in most spots, but the anchor I remember being a little tricky although there was one bolt I used as part of it.

After bringing up the second I think we walked over and rapped off the Emotional Content anchors


Protection 

assortment of gear. Small cams, i don't think I used anything larger than a #2 camalot



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By Elijah Flenner
Sep 16, 2007

I don't think this is First Time Up, but rather the climb called Manked in the Chad Watkins and Tom Hancock guide book.

By Rodion
Feb 3, 2008

This is not First Time Up. First Time Up is the quite classic hand-to-fist crack left of Horseshoes and Hand Grenades.

By Scott Strong
From: Dallas, TX
May 30, 2011

The guidebook says standard rack, doubles #2-4. From the bottom the top half looked protectable with #2s but I found that it really requires mostly 3s and 4s to protect the climb. Long runners are a good idea too.

By michaeltarne
Mar 4, 2012

First Time Up is a great route, uses big gear almost the whole way- I never placed anything smaller than a BD#2. Great flake, good rock and good pro everywhere except a short stretch in the middle.

By Andrew Sellers
From: Dallas, TX
May 30, 2012
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI HVS 4c

Recommend a C4 #6 in the middle corner, runout the crux, and protect up by the jug shaped like an L, if you get tired, you can sling your rope there while you protect. A double arm bar will provide a great rest at the offwidth section.