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 ADVANCED
The Far East
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Alesia T,S 
Cowgirl Up S 
El Chupacabra S 
Emotional Content S 
Filthy Sanchez S 
First Time Up T 
Full Yellow Jacket S 
Gracie's Eight S 
Horseshoes and Hand Grenades S 
King Kong S 
Kinky Boots S 
Montezuma's Toe S 
Orange Crush S 
Pieces of Eight S 
Plumb Bob S 
Purple Nehi S 
Recidivist S 
September Hero S 
Spine Tingler S 
Supersoul Sureshot S 
Tough Gong S 
Vodka Diet, The T 
Unsorted Routes:

First Time Up 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 836
Submitted By: Andrew Tower on Jul 4, 2007  with updates from Gokul

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (16)
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BETA PHOTO: This photo shows a climber midway up the route, st...

Description 

The offwidth crack/flake system that climbs out of the dihedral near the left end of the Far East wall (right of Kinky Boots). It eats up big gear in the #3 to #5 sizes. Long runners are a good idea.

Great flake, good rock and good pro everywhere except a short stretch in the middle.

Protection 

SR including a few #2-#4 cams, and possibly bigger.


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By Scott Strong
From: Dallas, TX
May 30, 2011

The guidebook says standard rack, doubles #2-4. From the bottom the top half looked protectable with #2s but I found that it really requires mostly 3s and 4s to protect the climb. Long runners are a good idea too.
By michaeltarne
Mar 4, 2012

First Time Up is a great route, uses big gear almost the whole way- I never placed anything smaller than a BD#2. Great flake, good rock and good pro everywhere except a short stretch in the middle.
By Andrew Sellers
From: Dallas, TX
May 30, 2012
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c

Recommend a C4 #6 in the middle corner, runout the crux, and protect up by the jug shaped like an L, if you get tired, you can sling your rope there while you protect. A double arm bar will provide a great rest at the offwidth section.