First time to Utah...best place for sport climbing?

Hi...I have all of July off and I"m looking to take a road trip! Sport Climbing is my thing, but I'm totally down for trad or crack climbing too. What's the best place for sport climbing in southern Utah? Anyone going to be out there and want a belay partner??

Not so sure southern UT is really where you want to be in July, unless there is some other reason you've chosen that area. I know there are some higher altitude areas around there.

MAPLE

I would not really consider Maple Canyon, "Southern", but yes that would be the obvious destination.

Just never been....seems to be in a reasonable driving distance. Do you recommend Northern Utah or another state altogether for July?

Ten sleep, Wyoming. Buy the extra gas... The camping is good and free. It is sport climbing paradise. Hit sinks and wild iris, lander wyo on the way. Trust me on this.

Around Cedar City, are some higher altitude crags.

WAY North Logan, UT

AlisonKristin wrote:Just never been....seems to be in a reasonable driving distance. Do you recommend Northern Utah or another state altogether for July?

So. Utah in July is way, way hot. You could certainly find climbable zones if you go to high elevation, north facing crags, but Northern Utah will offer much better conditions at its various summer-appropriate crags. Maple Canyon is good in the summer; relatively high elevation, and ample shade. The Uinta Mountains, way up in NE corner of the state, offer high-quality moderate cragging on quartzite at high elevation; good temps. Various Wasatch crags, around Salt lake/Ogden/Logan, will also offer good conditions if you chase the shade.

If you are willing to drive further, Wyoming has some good summer options (Tensleep, Wild Iris). Or you could go to Rifle.

DexterRutecki wrote: I had no idea the desert gets HOT in summer!? They should really do something about that...

Yeah...I know...brain fart. I'm from Victorville the high desert in California, but for some reason Utah being north of me I just didn't realize..LOL my bad.

So, Wyoming, huh people - that sounds just as awesome. So....advice for wyoming? Anyone looking for a partner up there? Oh, and must be dog friendly :)

AlisonKristin wrote: Yeah...I know...brain fart. I'm from Victorville the high desert in California, but for some reason Utah being north of me I just didn't realize..LOL my bad. So, Wyoming, huh people - that sounds just as awesome. So....advice for wyoming? Anyone looking for a partner up there? Oh, and must be dog friendly :)

Don't forget about the suggestion for Maple Canyon in UT. If you like sport climbing you have to hit Maple and could even do it just for a day or two on your way to Wyoming.

People crush AF all summer long. Probably less generic than Maple but further north.
SO UT in July is brutal. Get up early, chase shade.

+1 for S Utah being a BAD idea. AF is a great option that time of year. Plenty of nice shady cliffs with good routes. This year you might be able to even get all the way up to the Uinta's! Amazing climbing in perfect summer conditions.

Climb out in cali for the summer. Save some $ and once fall hits fly to rrg

jordan cocanower wrote:Climb out in cali for the summer. Save some $ and once fall hits fly to rrg

+1. Hit the New as well. People are going to disgaree but eastern sandstone in late October is much better than any of the sport in Utah - except Mill Creek, which is sick.

Is there a reason you want to leave CA? There have to be donzens (if not hundreds) of areas that you haven't seen. You're only a few hours from the Needles and a few more to Tuolomne and High Sierra. I would kill to be out there in July this year!

jordan cocanower wrote:Climb out in cali for the summer. Save some $ and once fall hits fly to rrg

She says she has JULY off, not all summer and fall.
But yes the Red is amazing, as is the New.

Your answer is hidden here: when the moon is in the southern sky...

If your in Moab please contact me, some sport climbing in the mountains nearby. I have friends that visit each summer and we will be chasing the shade at The Creek in the mornings as well as climbing shadey tower routes. A bit hot in July but we manage to climb any how.

Ryan Williams wrote: +1. Hit the New as well. People are going to disgaree but eastern sandstone in late October is much better than any of the sport in Utah - except Mill Creek, which is sick. Is there a reason you want to leave CA? There have to be donzens (if not hundreds) of areas that you haven't seen. You're only a few hours from the Needles and a few more to Tuolomne and High Sierra. I would kill to be out there in July this year!

I have the money to travel this year and want to take my chance. Next year may be slimmer financially, then I will travel CA :)

Uintahs are really nice for a day or two around that time as well - check out Ruth Lake area.

If you come to Moab PM me and I'll show you around Mill Creek.

..and it's NOT b/c your a girl or that you APPEAR to be cute. I'd do this for anyone (that is female and appears cute). Wait, what were we talking about again?

Don't let people get you down - you'll have an amazing time climbing in July. Yeah, SU is a bit unbearable. But northern Utah has great conditions (it may not be perfect fall and spring but still great). Since you have a month, I'd look to move around a bit.

UT - Big & Little Cottonwood canyon, Maple canyon. I wouldn't go to Uintahs, not a good investment in travel time in my opinion. Go to WY, Lander and such - well worth the time.

We get spoiled in UT with perfect climbing conditions so don't let our complaints of a little heat get to you :)