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First time to Utah...best place for sport climbing?
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By AlisonKristin
From Victorville, CA
May 6, 2012
New Jack!

Hi...I have all of July off and I"m looking to take a road trip! Sport Climbing is my thing, but I'm totally down for trad or crack climbing too. What's the best place for sport climbing in southern Utah? Anyone going to be out there and want a belay partner??


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By LeeAB
Administrator
From ABQ, NM
May 6, 2012
Once we landed we headed to Font to find a place to stay for the night before doing a day of wine tasting and heading to Buoux.

Not so sure southern UT is really where you want to be in July, unless there is some other reason you've chosen that area. I know there are some higher altitude areas around there.


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By Austin Baird
From SLC, Utah
May 6, 2012
Me scaring years off my mom's life

MAPLE


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By LeeAB
Administrator
From ABQ, NM
May 6, 2012
Once we landed we headed to Font to find a place to stay for the night before doing a day of wine tasting and heading to Buoux.

I would not really consider Maple Canyon, "Southern", but yes that would be the obvious destination.


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By AlisonKristin
From Victorville, CA
May 7, 2012
New Jack!

Just never been....seems to be in a reasonable driving distance. Do you recommend Northern Utah or another state altogether for July?


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By JMo
From Tucson, AZ
May 7, 2012
vertebrae roof

Ten sleep, Wyoming. Buy the extra gas... The camping is good and free. It is sport climbing paradise. Hit sinks and wild iris, lander wyo on the way. Trust me on this.


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By portercassidy
From UT/CO
May 7, 2012
Deep in a slot canyon, somewhere on the colorado plateau

Around Cedar City, are some higher altitude crags.


WAY North Logan, UT


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By JCM
From Seattle, WA
May 7, 2012

AlisonKristin wrote:
Just never been....seems to be in a reasonable driving distance. Do you recommend Northern Utah or another state altogether for July?


So. Utah in July is way, way hot. You could certainly find climbable zones if you go to high elevation, north facing crags, but Northern Utah will offer much better conditions at its various summer-appropriate crags. Maple Canyon is good in the summer; relatively high elevation, and ample shade. The Uinta Mountains, way up in NE corner of the state, offer high-quality moderate cragging on quartzite at high elevation; good temps. Various Wasatch crags, around Salt lake/Ogden/Logan, will also offer good conditions if you chase the shade.

If you are willing to drive further, Wyoming has some good summer options (Tensleep, Wild Iris). Or you could go to Rifle.


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By AlisonKristin
From Victorville, CA
May 7, 2012
New Jack!

DexterRutecki wrote:
I had no idea the desert gets HOT in summer!? They should really do something about that...


Yeah...I know...brain fart. I'm from Victorville the high desert in California, but for some reason Utah being north of me I just didn't realize..LOL my bad.

So, Wyoming, huh people - that sounds just as awesome. So....advice for wyoming? Anyone looking for a partner up there? Oh, and must be dog friendly :)


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By kennoyce
From Layton, UT
May 7, 2012
Climbing at the Gallery in Red Rocks

AlisonKristin wrote:
Yeah...I know...brain fart. I'm from Victorville the high desert in California, but for some reason Utah being north of me I just didn't realize..LOL my bad. So, Wyoming, huh people - that sounds just as awesome. So....advice for wyoming? Anyone looking for a partner up there? Oh, and must be dog friendly :)


Don't forget about the suggestion for Maple Canyon in UT. If you like sport climbing you have to hit Maple and could even do it just for a day or two on your way to Wyoming.


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By Boissal
From Small Lake, UT
May 7, 2012

People crush AF all summer long. Probably less generic than Maple but further north.
SO UT in July is brutal. Get up early, chase shade.


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By Christian "crisco" Burrell
From PG, Utah
May 7, 2012
Our less than official sponsor!

+1 for S Utah being a BAD idea. AF is a great option that time of year. Plenty of nice shady cliffs with good routes. This year you might be able to even get all the way up to the Uinta's! Amazing climbing in perfect summer conditions.


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By jordan cocanower
From The High Country
May 7, 2012
A nice little alpine day

Climb out in cali for the summer. Save some $ and once fall hits fly to rrg


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By Ryan Williams
Administrator
From London (sort of)
May 7, 2012
El Chorro

jordan cocanower wrote:
Climb out in cali for the summer. Save some $ and once fall hits fly to rrg


+1. Hit the New as well. People are going to disgaree but eastern sandstone in late October is much better than any of the sport in Utah - except Mill Creek, which is sick.

Is there a reason you want to leave CA? There have to be donzens (if not hundreds) of areas that you haven't seen. You're only a few hours from the Needles and a few more to Tuolomne and High Sierra. I would kill to be out there in July this year!


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By LeeAB
Administrator
From ABQ, NM
May 9, 2012
Once we landed we headed to Font to find a place to stay for the night before doing a day of wine tasting and heading to Buoux.

jordan cocanower wrote:
Climb out in cali for the summer. Save some $ and once fall hits fly to rrg


She says she has JULY off, not all summer and fall.
But yes the Red is amazing, as is the New.


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By ddriver
From SLC
May 9, 2012

Your answer is hidden here: when the moon is in the southern sky...


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By budman
From Moab,UT
May 9, 2012
LCC

If your in Moab please contact me, some sport climbing in the mountains nearby. I have friends that visit each summer and we will be chasing the shade at The Creek in the mornings as well as climbing shadey tower routes. A bit hot in July but we manage to climb any how.


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By AlisonKristin
From Victorville, CA
May 9, 2012
New Jack!

Ryan Williams wrote:
+1. Hit the New as well. People are going to disgaree but eastern sandstone in late October is much better than any of the sport in Utah - except Mill Creek, which is sick. Is there a reason you want to leave CA? There have to be donzens (if not hundreds) of areas that you haven't seen. You're only a few hours from the Needles and a few more to Tuolomne and High Sierra. I would kill to be out there in July this year!


I have the money to travel this year and want to take my chance. Next year may be slimmer financially, then I will travel CA :)


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By Andrew Gram
Administrator
From Salt Lake City, UT
May 9, 2012
Andrew Gram

Uintahs are really nice for a day or two around that time as well - check out Ruth Lake area.


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By ben jammin
From Moab, UT
May 9, 2012
Aesthetics

If you come to Moab PM me and I'll show you around Mill Creek.

..and it's NOT b/c your a girl or that you APPEAR to be cute. I'd do this for anyone (that is female and appears cute). Wait, what were we talking about again?


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By drnelson14
From Logan, UT
May 9, 2012

Don't let people get you down - you'll have an amazing time climbing in July. Yeah, SU is a bit unbearable. But northern Utah has great conditions (it may not be perfect fall and spring but still great). Since you have a month, I'd look to move around a bit.

UT - Big & Little Cottonwood canyon, Maple canyon. I wouldn't go to Uintahs, not a good investment in travel time in my opinion. Go to WY, Lander and such - well worth the time.

We get spoiled in UT with perfect climbing conditions so don't let our complaints of a little heat get to you :)


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By Finn the Human
From The Land of Ooo
May 9, 2012
Mathematical!

If you're going make the trek up north, and you're game for some harder sport routes, be sure to check out American Fork Canyon.


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By AlisonKristin
From Victorville, CA
May 9, 2012
New Jack!

OMG awesomeness....OK here is the general idea.

Leave July 1st-ish....travel up through Utah, then into Wyoming, then down into Colorado on the way home. Of course this trip could be done in reverse if need be. I'm mapping out all the places you guys have mentioned and seeing which ones fall within the general circle.

What's this international climbers fest I'm hearing about - when and where? Sounds epic :)


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By Brian in SLC
May 10, 2012
Climbing in Smuggler's Notch

Uintas. With the low snowpack this year (compared to last), the skeeters should be quieter and it could be great in July. Beauty area.

Maple.

If you're not travelling with a dog, Big or Little Cottonwood.

Southern Utah? Head high out of Cedar City to the Overlook.


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By Jaren Watson
From Rexburg, Idaho
May 10, 2012

International Climbers' Festival is in Lander July 11-15. Festival Website


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By riv rock
Jun 3, 2014

If you make it to Logan contact me, I will climb with you for a day, which will show you most of Logan Canyon unless you are leading high 12s, which I don't.


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