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First time to Utah...best place for sport climbing?
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May 6, 2012
New Jack!
Hi...I have all of July off and I"m looking to take a road trip! Sport Climbing is my thing, but I'm totally down for trad or crack climbing too. What's the best place for sport climbing in southern Utah? Anyone going to be out there and want a belay partner?? AlisonKristin
From Victorville, CA
Joined Jan 22, 2012
276 points
Administrator
May 6, 2012
Once we landed we headed to Font to find a place t...
Not so sure southern UT is really where you want to be in July, unless there is some other reason you've chosen that area. I know there are some higher altitude areas around there. LeeAB
From ABQ, NM
Joined Aug 3, 2008
10,131 points
May 6, 2012
Me scaring years off my mom's life
MAPLE Austin Baird
From SLC, Utah
Joined Apr 26, 2009
101 points
Administrator
May 6, 2012
Once we landed we headed to Font to find a place t...
I would not really consider Maple Canyon, "Southern", but yes that would be the obvious destination. LeeAB
From ABQ, NM
Joined Aug 3, 2008
10,131 points
May 7, 2012
New Jack!
Just never been....seems to be in a reasonable driving distance. Do you recommend Northern Utah or another state altogether for July? AlisonKristin
From Victorville, CA
Joined Jan 22, 2012
276 points
May 7, 2012
vertebrae roof
Ten sleep, Wyoming. Buy the extra gas... The camping is good and free. It is sport climbing paradise. Hit sinks and wild iris, lander wyo on the way. Trust me on this. JMo
From Tucson, AZ
Joined Jan 12, 2009
1,007 points
May 7, 2012
Deep in a slot canyon, somewhere on the colorado p...
Around Cedar City, are some higher altitude crags.


WAY North Logan, UT
portercassidy
From UT/CO
Joined Nov 4, 2006
68 points
May 7, 2012
AlisonKristin wrote:
Just never been....seems to be in a reasonable driving distance. Do you recommend Northern Utah or another state altogether for July?


So. Utah in July is way, way hot. You could certainly find climbable zones if you go to high elevation, north facing crags, but Northern Utah will offer much better conditions at its various summer-appropriate crags. Maple Canyon is good in the summer; relatively high elevation, and ample shade. The Uinta Mountains, way up in NE corner of the state, offer high-quality moderate cragging on quartzite at high elevation; good temps. Various Wasatch crags, around Salt lake/Ogden/Logan, will also offer good conditions if you chase the shade.

If you are willing to drive further, Wyoming has some good summer options (Tensleep, Wild Iris). Or you could go to Rifle.
JCM
From Seattle, WA
Joined Jun 9, 2008
53 points
May 7, 2012
New Jack!
DexterRutecki wrote:
I had no idea the desert gets HOT in summer!? They should really do something about that...


Yeah...I know...brain fart. I'm from Victorville the high desert in California, but for some reason Utah being north of me I just didn't realize..LOL my bad.

So, Wyoming, huh people - that sounds just as awesome. So....advice for wyoming? Anyone looking for a partner up there? Oh, and must be dog friendly :)
AlisonKristin
From Victorville, CA
Joined Jan 22, 2012
276 points
May 7, 2012
Climbing at the Gallery in Red Rocks
AlisonKristin wrote:
Yeah...I know...brain fart. I'm from Victorville the high desert in California, but for some reason Utah being north of me I just didn't realize..LOL my bad. So, Wyoming, huh people - that sounds just as awesome. So....advice for wyoming? Anyone looking for a partner up there? Oh, and must be dog friendly :)


Don't forget about the suggestion for Maple Canyon in UT. If you like sport climbing you have to hit Maple and could even do it just for a day or two on your way to Wyoming.
kennoyce
From Layton, UT
Joined Aug 12, 2010
1,504 points
May 7, 2012
People crush AF all summer long. Probably less generic than Maple but further north.
SO UT in July is brutal. Get up early, chase shade.
Boissal
From Small Lake, UT
Joined Aug 21, 2006
1,713 points
May 7, 2012
Our less than official sponsor!
+1 for S Utah being a BAD idea. AF is a great option that time of year. Plenty of nice shady cliffs with good routes. This year you might be able to even get all the way up to the Uinta's! Amazing climbing in perfect summer conditions. Christian "crisco" Burrell
From PG, Utah
Joined May 18, 2007
2,274 points
May 7, 2012
Getting ready to sink my mitts into the perfect sp...
Climb out in cali for the summer. Save some $ and once fall hits fly to rrg Cocanower
From The High Country
Joined Jan 24, 2012
81 points
Administrator
May 7, 2012
El Chorro
jordan cocanower wrote:
Climb out in cali for the summer. Save some $ and once fall hits fly to rrg


+1. Hit the New as well. People are going to disgaree but eastern sandstone in late October is much better than any of the sport in Utah - except Mill Creek, which is sick.

Is there a reason you want to leave CA? There have to be donzens (if not hundreds) of areas that you haven't seen. You're only a few hours from the Needles and a few more to Tuolomne and High Sierra. I would kill to be out there in July this year!
Ryan Williams
From London (sort of)
Joined May 10, 2009
1,468 points
Administrator
May 9, 2012
Once we landed we headed to Font to find a place t...
jordan cocanower wrote:
Climb out in cali for the summer. Save some $ and once fall hits fly to rrg


She says she has JULY off, not all summer and fall.
But yes the Red is amazing, as is the New.
LeeAB
From ABQ, NM
Joined Aug 3, 2008
10,131 points
May 9, 2012
Your answer is hidden here: when the moon is in the southern sky...
ddriver
From SLC
Joined Jul 30, 2007
300 points
May 9, 2012
LCC
If your in Moab please contact me, some sport climbing in the mountains nearby. I have friends that visit each summer and we will be chasing the shade at The Creek in the mornings as well as climbing shadey tower routes. A bit hot in July but we manage to climb any how. budman
From Moab,UT
Joined Mar 20, 2008
10 points
May 9, 2012
New Jack!
Ryan Williams wrote:
+1. Hit the New as well. People are going to disgaree but eastern sandstone in late October is much better than any of the sport in Utah - except Mill Creek, which is sick. Is there a reason you want to leave CA? There have to be donzens (if not hundreds) of areas that you haven't seen. You're only a few hours from the Needles and a few more to Tuolomne and High Sierra. I would kill to be out there in July this year!


I have the money to travel this year and want to take my chance. Next year may be slimmer financially, then I will travel CA :)
AlisonKristin
From Victorville, CA
Joined Jan 22, 2012
276 points
Administrator
May 9, 2012
Andrew Gram
Uintahs are really nice for a day or two around that time as well - check out Ruth Lake area. Andrew Gram
From Salt Lake City, UT
Joined Jan 1, 2001
3,579 points
May 9, 2012
Kolob
If you come to Moab PM me and I'll show you around Mill Creek.

..and it's NOT b/c your a girl or that you APPEAR to be cute. I'd do this for anyone (that is female and appears cute). Wait, what were we talking about again?
ben jammin
From Moab, UT
Joined Jul 10, 2008
709 points
May 9, 2012
Don't let people get you down - you'll have an amazing time climbing in July. Yeah, SU is a bit unbearable. But northern Utah has great conditions (it may not be perfect fall and spring but still great). Since you have a month, I'd look to move around a bit.

UT - Big & Little Cottonwood canyon, Maple canyon. I wouldn't go to Uintahs, not a good investment in travel time in my opinion. Go to WY, Lander and such - well worth the time.

We get spoiled in UT with perfect climbing conditions so don't let our complaints of a little heat get to you :)
drnelson14
From Logan, UT
Joined Mar 31, 2012
0 points
May 9, 2012
Mathematical!
If you're going make the trek up north, and you're game for some harder sport routes, be sure to check out American Fork Canyon. Finn the Human
From The Land of Ooo
Joined Jul 11, 2008
123 points
May 9, 2012
New Jack!
OMG awesomeness....OK here is the general idea.

Leave July 1st-ish....travel up through Utah, then into Wyoming, then down into Colorado on the way home. Of course this trip could be done in reverse if need be. I'm mapping out all the places you guys have mentioned and seeing which ones fall within the general circle.

What's this international climbers fest I'm hearing about - when and where? Sounds epic :)
AlisonKristin
From Victorville, CA
Joined Jan 22, 2012
276 points
May 10, 2012
Climbing in Smuggler's Notch
Uintas. With the low snowpack this year (compared to last), the skeeters should be quieter and it could be great in July. Beauty area.

Maple.

If you're not travelling with a dog, Big or Little Cottonwood.

Southern Utah? Head high out of Cedar City to the Overlook.
Brian in SLC
Joined Oct 6, 2003
11,031 points
May 10, 2012
International Climbers' Festival is in Lander July 11-15. Festival Website Jaren Watson
From Rexburg, Idaho
Joined May 30, 2010
1,179 points
Jun 3, 2014
If you make it to Logan contact me, I will climb with you for a day, which will show you most of Logan Canyon unless you are leading high 12s, which I don't. riv rock
Joined Jun 3, 2014
0 points


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