First Return 

This climb starts on sentry box ledge at the far North end. Climb the face (5.8) to inside corner, or start in corner itself. this crack ends at a kind of slabby overhang. Pull to Left (supposedly a hidden jug) or right to nice gear belay ft(5.8). 2nd pitch follows crack to the top (5.5). (you are right Jeff) There are a nice new set of Rap bolts about 20 ft North of the big tree. Previously the tree was the rap anchor. Now the rap does not interfere with the other routes that come up from the ledge.

I don't think those distances, mentioned in the above comment, are correct (p1 = 120 ft + p 2 = 180 ft = 300 ft). The two pitches can be combined into one pitch that is less than 200 ft pitch. And the rappel from the new bolts is approximately 180 ft to Sentry Box Ledge. I will find the pdf of the new anchors and post...it is attached to the Gemini Cracks page.

The start is exciting! P2 is a bit sandbagged. Probably closer to 5.7, but still fun.

Sweet runout off of the ledge! Good, thought-provoking moves and gear placements in the maddeningly flaring crack, coupled with a pretty sandbagged second pitch, make a for a full package (or a thick, juicy humble burger). Not good for the new 5.8 leader.

I second that comment on the it not being a good climb for the inexperienced leader. Not sure where that jug is off to the left that you guys were talking about I might but this more at an 8+ only because of the section of runnout at the beginning and after the flaring crack (unless I completly missed something).

If the second pitch is wet it is very easy to link over to second coming at the top of the first pitch