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 ADVANCED
South Side
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
B-52 T 
Bat's Ass T 
Bloody Crack T 
Catch Me Now I'm Falling T 
Chaos Out of Control T 
Dinkus Dog T 
Fat Dog T 
First Return T 
Gemini Crack T 
Good Intentions T 
Left Up T 
Lichen or Not T 
Mettle Detector T,S 
name unknown (Bamboozled) T 
Parachute Woman T 
Rat's Ass T 
Right Up T 
Second Coming T 
Short Man's Sorrow T 
Slug, The T 
Unfinished Concerto T 
Windwalker T 
Zodiac T 
Unsorted Routes:

First Return 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 200'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Ron Cousins, Art Williams, 1972
Page Views: 2,932
Submitted By: Jeff Mekolites on Apr 23, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (42)
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BETA PHOTO: First Return moving through what I think is the cr...

Description 

Thin moves down low lead past the crux and to a thin corner. Climb this corner aiming for the larger corner system. Follow up and to the right to the Gemini Rappel anchors. A double rope rappel puts you back on Sentry Box Ledge.

Location 

First Return is the left most route of the three routes (Gemini Crack and Zodiac) located on Sentry Box Ledge.

Protection 

Standard NC rack with some small gear (aliens, nuts), long runners, double ropes. Rap anchors at top.


Comments on First Return Add Comment
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By Floridaputz
From: Oakland Park, Florida
May 2, 2007

This climb starts on sentry box ledge at the far North end. Climb the face (5.8) to inside corner, or start in corner itself. this crack ends at a kind of slabby overhang. Pull to Left (supposedly a hidden jug) or right to nice gear belay ft(5.8). 2nd pitch follows crack to the top (5.5). (you are right Jeff) There are a nice new set of Rap bolts about 20 ft North of the big tree. Previously the tree was the rap anchor. Now the rap does not interfere with the other routes that come up from the ledge.
By Jeff Mekolites
From: HOTlanta, GA
Aug 12, 2008

I don't think those distances, mentioned in the above comment, are correct (p1 = 120 ft + p 2 = 180 ft = 300 ft). The two pitches can be combined into one pitch that is less than 200 ft pitch. And the rappel from the new bolts is approximately 180 ft to Sentry Box Ledge. I will find the pdf of the new anchors and post...it is attached to the Gemini Cracks page.
By TomCaldwell
From: Clemson, S.C.
Jul 1, 2009

The start is exciting! P2 is a bit sandbagged. Probably closer to 5.7, but still fun.
By Rob Rives
Aug 6, 2010

Sweet runout off of the ledge! Good, thought-provoking moves and gear placements in the maddeningly flaring crack, coupled with a pretty sandbagged second pitch, make a for a full package (or a thick, juicy humble burger). Not good for the new 5.8 leader.
By Eric Embree
From: Wheaton, Illinois
Oct 20, 2012
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

I second that comment on the it not being a good climb for the inexperienced leader. Not sure where that jug is off to the left that you guys were talking about I might but this more at an 8+ only because of the section of runnout at the beginning and after the flaring crack (unless I completly missed something).
By Twhitmire
From: lookout mountain, ga
Apr 19, 2013

If the second pitch is wet it is very easy to link over to second coming at the top of the first pitch
By munkeybog
Oct 24, 2013
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13

The start of this climb could end a climbing season for inexperienced or inattentive leader.
Don't fall. The rest of the climb is a wonderful moderate.