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By needstolearn
Mar 7, 2011
going to climb my first multi pitch sport route but i was wondering about the belay anchor.I know that when trading you need a 3 point anchor but I also know that most rap anchors are 2 bolts.So i guess the question is do i just use the blots for a 2 point anchor.Also really want to use my atc guide in guide mode.Can i use he same anchors as I am clipped to? or am i gonna have to suck it up and save for some trad gear.



if it helps the route i want to do is Playin' Hooky

mountainproject.com/v/colorado...

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By Ryan Williams
Administrator
From London (sort of)
Mar 7, 2011
El Chorro
It sounds like you need a little more instruction before you go and climb this route.

Generally if there is a two bolt anchor, that's all you use for the belay. Unless the bolts are suspect of course, and only experience will help you figure out what bolts are good and which ones aren't. If you're doing a sport climb though, there probably aren't a lot of trad placements and the climb was meant to be done on bolts, including the anchors.

At a bolted anchor, I use a clove hitch and the rope and secure myself to one of the bolts. Sometime I secure myself to both bolts with the second rope (doubles) or a sling. Then I use a nylon shoulder sling and make a sliding X between the bolts and belay in guide mode. I usually back up the sliding X w/ a second sling, an 8 or 10 mm dyneema.

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By jackkelly00
Mar 7, 2011
Read a few more books or a find an experienced partner before you get on a multipitch. Good luck

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By Monty
From Golden, CO
Mar 7, 2011
Just a teaser
needstolearn wrote:
if it helps the route i want to do is Playin' Hooky


You definately wont need any trad gear on Playin Hooky. I almost always use an atc in guide mode on multi-pitch routes sport or trad. When you get to an anchor:
1. Clip into one of the bolts with a daisy chain or personal anchor system of some kind. Then either use the rope to anchor into the other bolt with a clove hitch or figure 8; you can also use a long sling too. Just make sure first things first that you are on 2 points.
2. Using a 48inch sling set up a sliding x on the anchor, once you have the desired direction, tie it off with either an overhand or figure 8.
3. Clip your Guide straight to the sliding x that you just tied off and put your partner on belay.

Set up something at home from a door frame, a chair or where-ever you can have a practice anchor. I highly reccomend going out with someone to a single pitch crag where they can also show you hands on how to set up your anchor..

Like Jack Kelly said, read up, practice, and go with an experienced partner.

Have Fun and be safe.

P.S. Watch for those blood sucking ticks on the approach if your going between now and June.

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By Tim Hadfield
From Steamboat Springs, Co
Mar 7, 2011
Easy stuff at Rifle
Playing Hooky will be a great first multi-pitch for you, But as others have said, take someone along that you trust to actually teach you the proper anchor and belay techniques. There are so many things to know and learning them on the climb could lead to an epic adventure. I've taught many friends about multi-pitch climbing while indoors, climbing where I could be right there at the anchor with them. Another thought would be a short outdoor wall that some one could walk up to the top and walk/talk you through the procedures. Good luck, have fun and be safe.

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By Scott McMahon
From Boulder, CO
Mar 7, 2011
Bocan
Ryan Williams wrote:
It sounds like you need a little more instruction before you go and climb this route. Generally if there is a two bolt anchor, that's all you use for the belay. Unless the bolts are suspect of course, and only experience will help you figure out what bolts are good and which ones aren't. If you're doing a sport climb though, there probably aren't a lot of trad placements and the climb was meant to be done on bolts, including the anchors. At a bolted anchor, I use a clove hitch and the rope and secure myself to one of the bolts. Sometime I secure myself to both bolts with the second rope (doubles) or a sling. Then I use a nylon shoulder sling and make a sliding X between the bolts and belay in guide mode. I usually back up the sliding X w/ a second sling, an 8 or 10 mm dyneema.


+1 You might want to have a better handle on this stuff before trying to figure it out off the ground. I'd recommend seconding a few multi's before you start leading them.

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By Derek W
Mar 7, 2011
First summit of First Flatiron
Scott McMahon wrote:
+1 You might want to have a better handle on this stuff before trying to figure it out off the ground. I'd recommend seconding a few multi's before you start leading them.

+1

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By JohnnyG
Mar 7, 2011
my two cents: Get a guide for one day to show (or just confirm) the basics and tricks. Tell him/her you want to learn how to safely build anchors for multi-pitch climbing, and that you already know the basics of belaying, placing gear, etc.

This is the perfect time to get the most bang for you buck out of any cash you spend on a guide. I know the cost isn't cheap, but in the big picture it's pretty cheap. Think of 1) the peace of mind absolutely knowing you're doing it right, 2) all the hours you'll spend climbing, 3) all the moolah you've spent so far.

Just after I started leading I paid for a day with a guide. It made everything I learned from reading come to life. These people really know their stuff--tons of training, tons of experience.

This is one case where it is tough to simply trust a friend to teach you. You'll see this forum is plastered with stories of new climbers and "experienced" climbers doing stupid stuff.

After one day, you'll be set

Even after 20+ years of climbing, whenever I climb with a friend who is a guide I am amazed by all they know about how to keep things safe and efficient.

and since nobody else wrote it yet....yer gonna die!

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By PRRose
From Boulder
Mar 7, 2011
Playin' Hooky is a great climb, but be aware of a few things:

1. If you don't combine the first two pitches into one, you have a hanging belay at the top of P1. That is not an ideal place to be sorting yourself out on your first multipitch route.

2. If you do combine the first two pitches, you get a great first belay on a huge ledge. The belay anchors are low, and if you clip directly into them you may be too far from the edge to belay without having the rope rub over the edge. Consider using the higher rappel anchors to redirect the rope so it doesn't run over the edge of the ledge and tie in so that you are extended closer to the edge. And, be careful because the ledge has a lot of loose rock on it.

3. The raps don't end at the same place as the belays. From the top, you rap to an intermediate anchor on the headwall. TIE KNOTS IN THE ENDS OF THE ROPE!

4. The rap from the top is semi-hanging. Again, not an ideal spot to be working out your systems for the first time.

5. Use the higher anchors at the big ledge when descending.

6. The rap from the big ledge ends at a hanging belay (unless you have doubles). TIE KNOTS IN THE ENDS OF THE ROPE!

If you haven't dealt with these situations before, get some more instruction.

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By jafrizza
From Golden CO
Mar 7, 2011
Halfway there.
is a 60 meter rope long enough to combine the first two pitches?

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By Monty
From Golden, CO
Mar 7, 2011
Just a teaser
A 60m is just perfect. Have your belayer shoed up, tied in and ready to go. I normally have about 3 ft left once I'm at the belay but I'm sure that would vary from different manufacturer's. As for the rope rubbing comments over the "edge"... I wouldn't worry about that at all.

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By Darren Mabe
From Flagstaff, AZ
Apr 9, 2011
wham bam hand jam. Wrapping up the final moves of ...
needstolearn how to not be a troll.

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