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Illusion Crags
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First Lady of Magic 
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Slight of Hand 
Who Deany 

First Lady of Magic 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a

   
Type: Trad, 1 pitch, 140'
FA: Todd and Donette Swain; November 1991.
Page Views: 629
Submitted By: John Hegyes on Jan 1, 2006
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BETA PHOTO: Illusion Crags Main Face

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Description 

First Lady of Magic climbs the corner that curves to the left forming the arch 5 feet right of Who Deany. Ascend the corner until you can reach right and pull up, on to the face. Climb up to a bolt and then head right a bit to a small ledge. Fire up the obvious crack to a ledge with a 2 bolt anchor. Rappel with two ropes.

A single rope rappel can be done to the anchors on top of Who Deany to the climber's left, followed by another single rope rap to the ground.


Protection 

Gear up to #2 Camalot. Lots of small gear.



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By Andrew Yasso
Jan 11, 2014

We easily top-roped this climb and rappelled with a single 70M line with room to spare. A fun, exciting climb on great rock. Reminded me a bit of Sensuous Mortician on the Necromancer wall. Be cognisant getting to the bolt, as it would require a static catch from the belayer if you fell just below it to keep you off the ground.