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From Sore-O-Pod, First Iteration is the line of bolts going up the face just to the left. Second Iteration is on the right.
Great route! This has some delicate face climbing at the beginning and the end with the crux coming right before the top-out.
I think there are [three] bolts, but you can protect in the crack to the right (Sore-O-Pod). A trad top-rope anchor can be set above Sore-o-Pod also.
|Comments on First Iteration
|By Brian Weinstein|
Jul 20, 2004
...a #1 Camalot will give some comfort at the horizontal crack before the last bolt. I found that finishing the route straight up would bump the grade up significantly. Blank friction. Enter Sore-o-pod or exit left if up is not an option.
|By chris parks|
Oct 15, 2005
I attempted to climb this thing today. I am not a stellar slab climber, but I think this thing goes way harder than 10a. so bear with my comments. I am sure you more experienced folk can explain to this inchoate slab climber how to do this thing.
From the third bolt this is what I did.
I climbed up on the little ledges to the left of the bolt which put me above the bolt and in a nasty fall situation. From here I tried to go up but could not. From the top little ledge above and left of the bolt there is protrusion from the wall that I thought that I might be able to use, but pretty confident using it would have resulted in getting spit off this thing and taking a good whipper.
So what I did was downclimb to below the third bolt at the horizontal and do the A0 pendulum traverse to the easy crack to the right.
What gives with this climb does it take some wild weird Vedauwoo traverse from the bolt or go straight up? I will stick to wide cracks in the meantime.
|By Dylan Kuhn|
From: Fort Collins, CO
Jul 24, 2007
I sat on those ledges for a long time, then finally settled on a big traverse step to the right, just because the fall would be better. It felt like at least 10a. Later I tried the final move up from the ledges on TR, and made it, but it did feel hard. Would be even harder with less reach (I'm 6'2"). Then again, I haven't been doing much slab lately....
|By Matt Richardson|
From: Fort Collins, CO
Jul 14, 2008
OK, now I have to weigh in on this. I have been climbing slab recently and feel fairly comfortable on it and, agreeing with Dylan and Chris, this thing is way harder if you stick left on the little ledges - maybe 11a/b with reach (I'm 6'2" also)? However, it is unclear to me how you continue right as you get the best clipping stance from those ledges. I didn't get a chance to go back and try it, but maybe you could back off the ledge once clipped and then traverse right.
But, if you do choose to go left, it is doable and I don't think you are in for a bad fall (you are just about 2 to 3' left of the bolt, which is about at you feet when you go for it). Just be aware that you will be crimping and smearing off of nothing.
|By allen simons|
Jun 30, 2009
Climbed this the other day. I did the rightward stem above the last bolt. I felt this climb to be 10c/d.
From: Boulder, Colorado
Mar 25, 2012
Boulder Canyon climbers beware.