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Hanging Garden
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First In Flight 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Russell Erickson & Todd Skinner (1985)
Season: mild weather
Page Views: 1,231
Submitted By: Stuart Turner on Jan 25, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
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The Ben.

Description 

Good mixed route with sustained climbing and great exposure. Don't forget to look down as you throw the crux move over 150 feet of air. The belay is a little tricky- set it at the lip and have the second climb past it and set one higher to back clean. This will avoid BAD rope drag. Walk off.

Location 

On over-hanging wall above and to the right of the Hanging Garden

Protection 

Bolt, cam, bolt, cam, natural belay


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At the lip
At the lip

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By gloomis
Sep 12, 2013

Short but brutal route. I give it 12a/b since it has one definitive crux in the middle and a crazy pump factor. 60 degrees overhung? We didn't setup a belay at the lip and the leader just went to the tree. Rope drage was fine. I would say that if your second isn't compitent at steep 5.12b than belaying your second at the lip would be a VERY GOOD idea.