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First In Flight 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Russell Erickson & Todd Skinner (1985)
Season: mild weather
Page Views: 1,114
Submitted By: Stuart Turner on Jan 25, 2009
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The Ben.
2013 Closures MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Good mixed route with sustained climbing and great exposure. Don't forget to look down as you throw the crux move over 150 feet of air. The belay is a little tricky- set it at the lip and have the second climb past it and set one higher to back clean. This will avoid BAD rope drag. Walk off.


Location 

On over-hanging wall above and to the right of the Hanging Garden


Protection 

Bolt, cam, bolt, cam, natural belay



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By gloomis
Sep 12, 2013

Short but brutal route. I give it 12a/b since it has one definitive crux in the middle and a crazy pump factor. 60 degrees overhung? We didn't setup a belay at the lip and the leader just went to the tree. Rope drage was fine. I would say that if your second isn't compitent at steep 5.12b than belaying your second at the lip would be a VERY GOOD idea.