Type: Trad
FA: Dougald MacDonald
Page Views: 3,728 total · 14/month
Shared By: Dougald MacDonald on Apr 21, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


4 Opinions
Your To-Do List: Add To-Do ·
Your Star Rating:
Rating Rating Rating Rating Rating      Clear Rating
Your Difficulty Rating:
-none- Change
Your Ticks:Add New Tick
-none-
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Warning Access Issue: 2024 Crag Closures & Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

This is the line below the direct rappel from the summit of the First (to the north). I'm sure people have TR'd it many times, but I asked the usual suspects and couldn't locate anyone who had led it before. Anyway, it's an excellent pitch, so I thought I'd describe it. If there's earlier history to this one, I'd love to hear it.

The line starts up overhanging rock, trending left, near the far right side of the north face. You're aiming for two, parallel, right-leaning corners a few feet apart and about halfway up the face. A #3 Camalot and an ancient fixed pin protect the initial moves. From a decent rest, place gear in the corners above and then launch up about 12 or 15 feet of strenuous finger crack, using both corners. A fairly committing move leads to a good rest at a break. From here, I led up and left on unprotected 5.8 face climbing and eventually reached the easy ground below the summit. It might also be possible to move right after the crux -- maybe there's pro out there too. The way I went was reasonably secure but serious.

Many people who could climb this route probably don't, because they've just soloed the First and don't have a rope or gear, but if you end up there with a rope, you should try it. It's very easy to toprope the line from the summit anchors with a 60-meter rope.

Protection Suggest change

Bring a #3 Camalot or equivalent for down low and a bunch of small wires for the crux.

Photos

- No Photos -

0 Comments