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Take the bolt line that travels just left of an orange streak that passes up a small left-facing dihedral. The crux is exiting the dihedral and getting over the rounded top of the rock.
10 bolts to a 2 chain anchor. It shares an anchor with Footloose.
Nick at the crux of "[First Impressions]."
BETA PHOTO: 1. Natural Selection, 11a/b.
2. The Nordwand, 11b/...
BETA PHOTO: First Impressions. The crux is at the top of the ...
Peter Dillon stemmed out just below the crux.
I love Photoshop. Nick, uh, soloing Eifel Tower in...
Dean says "This is a great and pumpy climb".
Joanne Robertson on her very first lead.
Little six year old Mazzi Childers climbing the ul...
Mazzi Childers on her new favorite climb "First Im...
Mazzi Childers on "First Impressions-(5.9+)." The...
@ the anchor OR on the moon?
Near the top.
Eva in the dihedral.
|Comments on First Impressions
|By Edward Jenner|
Jul 18, 2001
Unlike the 5.9 across the river (Vapour trail - Red Slab) this is a good route for beginner 5.9 leaders. It was my first 5.9 lead and I enjoyed it tremendously. The 5.10a next to it (left) is also a safe lead (my first 10a lead).
|By Sean Colaroso|
Oct 27, 2001
This just might be my favorite climb I have ever done there were a couple of moves that scared me, but I think that is what made it fun.
|By Patrick McGaugh|
Apr 28, 2002
Watch out for a loose block below the crux. Someone put a big X on it with chalk so it's not hard to spot. Be careful and enjoy.
|By Jason Carter|
From: Monument, CO
Aug 8, 2002
A really good line! After climbing this a few times and watching others; I am noticing that there is a tendency to go right at the top of the flake and semi-mantle over the lip - this leaves a long reach left to clip the bolt - I toyed and found that the climb can go in a plumb line with the bolts over the upper lip; however, it is a reach to the 2 finger crack for your left with thin feet, but it sets you up to clip at eye level, both moves, either straight up or jog right, gain the lip and are tricky - try it - Great climb, always busy!
|By Doug Redosh|
Jun 18, 2003
Good line, maybe a little stiff for Clear Creek 5.9. I remember those Red Slab lines as being a bit runout for sport climbs. I tried the crux 3 ways, left is definitely harder, straight up and right a little is the easiest and still allows one to clip the bolt, manteling to the right is not as hard as left, but harder than the center line.
|By Kevin Neilson|
Sep 11, 2005
On the topo above, the routes are:
7: Footloose (5.10a)
6: First Impressions (5.9)
5: Eiger Direct (5.11d)
4: Radometer in the Red Zone (5.11b/c)
3: Too! (pitch 1: 5.10d)
2: Nordwand (pitch 1: 5.10c)
1: Natural Selection (5.11a/b; long rope required)
|By Ron Olsen|
From: Boulder, CO
Sep 11, 2005
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a
A great pitch with lots of good moves, but it's a sandbag at 5.9; the crux at the top of the corner is more like 10a and is tricky to figure out.
|By Charlie Fried|
From: New York, NY
Jul 16, 2006
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a
Crux felt a lot harder then a 9!
I went right is that the correct way, or did I make it harder for myself?
|By Nate Oakes|
Jul 17, 2006
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a
I agree with Ron, although I go to the left at the crux instead of to the right or center. I'm told that, if you go right, there's a thin, unmarked crimp that's hard to see. So I can't speak to that variation... but going left is a tough move for me. The dihedral is a blast, long reaches (I'm 5'-10") for big holds.
|By Ken McVicker|
Jul 17, 2007
Good climb. Starts out with face moves and then you can undercling and side pull or layback up the dihedral. I exited the dihedral to the right. Take your time and you'll find it. There is a small not so obvious crimp for your right hand to get you out. Just find any crystal or nub for the left hand and balance your way out. Smear the feet. Two ballancy moves and you'll be out. The start feels like 5.7 but gets progressively harder. Great warmup route.
Jun 23, 2008
Great warm up for some of the mid range 10s on this wall. The crux def pushes the typical Clear Ck 5.9 standard. Fun climb.
|By Jon Zucco|
From: Denver, CO
Aug 15, 2008
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a
There is a loose horn about 2/3rds of the way up the flake at the top of the dihedral (is ticked with a X). Use caution if you choose to put weight on it. Otherwise, this is a classic nine dihedral. The crux (direct) is pulling the exposed transfer from good feet (dihedral) over a bulge with a hidden crimp to thin holds. You can also go right to an easier walk up. Great warm-up.
|By Jim Gloeckler|
From: Denver, Colo.
Sep 4, 2009
I think the crux is 5.9+ because of the pump factor. Moving thru the dihedral and resting where their is rests still provides a pump which has to be delt with at the crux. For shure a Sandbag 5.9 since it's much harder than "The Unsaid" and about as hard as "Morning Thunder". Just my opinion. Tough but nice climb. Two and a half stars.
From: Fort Collins, CO
Nov 7, 2010
The section at the top of the flake is like a little piece of J-Tree in Clear Creek. Fun route!
|By Harald Harb|
Aug 6, 2011
This is a warm-up route, the crux is 9, just have to think it through.
Oct 10, 2011
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a
There is no stake in the ground anymore, just recognize it off of the dihedral and bolts that follow under it. Some decently strong 5.9 moves warrant the + if you have not climbed in a while. Little more strength is required for this route than Herbal Essence second route to its left. I will definitely climb this again.
|By Alton R.|
From: Boulder, Co
Sep 19, 2012
I replaced the bottom quicklinks (lowering ones) on Saturday 9/15/2012. The old ones were looking pretty worn out. New ones are bomber 3/8".