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First Creek Canyon

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Alcohol Wall 
First Creek Slabs 
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First Creek Canyon 


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Location: 36.0799, -115.4778 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 395,219
Administrators: Larry DeAngelo, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: M.Morley on Feb 16, 2004
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Cool rocks up First Creek.

Description 

First Creek is home to the excellent trad climbing on the Lotta Balls Wall. Since it is located outside the gated part of the RRNCA, climbers wanting an early start can have it here. The walk to the Lotta Balls Wall takes the better part of an hour. There are other routes deeper in the canyon, and this is also a good place to start for some of the big routes on the southern part of Mount Wilson.


Getting There 

Drive south on Route 159 from the area of the Visitor Center. Continue south past the exit from the scenic loop road for another two or three miles to the clearly marked First Creek Trailhead. Park here and follow the trail west into the mouth of the canyon.


80 Total Routes


['4 Stars',5],['3 Stars',33],['2 Stars',29],['1 Star',11],['Bomb',2]
['<=5.6',9],['5.7',24],['5.8',12],['5.9',17],['5.10',16],['5.11',2],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for First Creek Canyon:
Doobie Dance   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   Romper Room
Sunset Slab Direct   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 7 pitches, 1000'   First Creek Slabs
Romper Room   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   Romper Room
Dodgeball   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 6 pitches, 700'   Lotta Balls Wall
Lady Luck   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 7 pitches, 1000'   First Creek Slabs
Algae on Parade   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 3 pitches, 600'   Romper Room
Sunset Slab   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 7 pitches, 1000'   First Creek Slabs
Lotta Balls   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 3 pitches, 420'   Lotta Balls Wall
Hot Flash   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 10 pitches, 1200'   First Creek Slabs
Black Magic   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 4 pitches, 580'   Lotta Balls Wall
Bruja's Brew   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 4 pitches, 400'   Lotta Balls Wall
Lucky Nuts   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 110'   Mudterm Area
Pinball Crack   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 125'   Slot Club Wall
Coffin Corner   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 140'   The Schoolyard
Celtic Cracks   5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b R     Trad, 8 pitches, 1300'   Labyrinth Wall
Rob Roy   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 150'   Alcohol Wall
Honcho Imposter   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 115'   The Schoolyard
Gin Ricky   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 180'   Alcohol Wall
Mai Tai   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R     Trad, 1 pitch, 150'   Alcohol Wall
Straight Shot   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   Alcohol Wall
Browse More Classics in First Creek Canyon

Featured Route For First Creek Canyon
Getting into the business

Gin Ricky 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b  NV : Red Rock : ... : Alcohol Wall
A proud and beautiful line, Gin Ricky ascends the prominent right facing dihedral located on the left hand side of the Alcohol Wall. While it does have a distinct crux section, endurance is the name of the game on this route. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in NV

Photos of First Creek Canyon Slideshow Add Photo
Our enchanted desert. : ) <br /> <br />A burro calmly stands amongst a blanket of yellow flowers on 9/4/12. <br /> <br />The beautiful hike into First Creek Canyon.
Our enchanted desert. : )

A burro calmly stands a...
Another cool rock formation.
Another cool rock formation.
Has anyone else seen this rock on the hike up first creek canyon?
Has anyone else seen this rock on the hike up firs...
The view of First Creek Canyon by morning light from near the road. A long apporach is worth while here. Photo by Tony Bubb, 4/06.
The view of First Creek Canyon by morning light fr...
Waterfall on First Creek. August 2005.
Waterfall on First Creek. August 2005.
Nathan Fitzhugh and John Maynard heading into First Creek.
Nathan Fitzhugh and John Maynard heading into Firs...
A Bighorn Sheep, and Lotta Balls Wall. <br /> <br />Taken 7/11/07
A Bighorn Sheep, and Lotta Balls Wall.

Taken 7/11...
Waterfall on First Creek. July 2007.
Waterfall on First Creek. July 2007.
A shot looking into the canyon from the approach. Image by Chris Parks.
A shot looking into the canyon from the approach. ...
Lotta Balls Wall, Alchohol Wall, Romper Room, Rising Moons
Lotta Balls Wall, Alchohol Wall, Romper Room, Risi...
South-facing aspects of First Creek Cny (southern flank of Wilson). <br />Some good stuff up there.
South-facing aspects of First Creek Cny (southern ...
Hiking to the Lotta Balls Wall- First Creek Canyon. <br /> <br />Taken 9/4/12- Gorgeous out there this time of year!
Hiking to the Lotta Balls Wall- First Creek Canyon...
First Creek Walls
BETA PHOTO: First Creek Walls
Looking north from the hike in.  Bridge Mtn and Solar Slab are visible.
Looking north from the hike in. Bridge Mtn and So...
Comments on First Creek Canyon Add Comment
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By Chris D
From: the couch
Feb 20, 2012
CONDITION REPORT 

Recovered a stuck rope today near rising moons. PM me if it's yours and I'll get it back to you.