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First Creek Canyon

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First Creek Canyon  


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Location: 36.0799, -115.4778 View Map  Incorrect?
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Administrators: Larry DeAngelo, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: M.Morley on Feb 16, 2004
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Description 

First Creek is home to the excellent trad climbing on the Lotta Balls Wall. Since it is located outside the gated part of the RRNCA, climbers wanting an early start can have it here. The walk to the Lotta Balls Wall takes the better part of an hour. There are other routes deeper in the canyon, and this is also a good place to start for some of the big routes on the southern part of Mount Wilson.

Getting There 

Drive south on Route 159 from the area of the Visitor Center. Continue south past the exit from the scenic loop road for another two or three miles to the clearly marked First Creek Trailhead. Park here and follow the trail west into the mouth of the canyon.

Climbing Season



Weather station 1.5 miles from here

80 Total Routes

['4 Stars',5],['3 Stars',33],['2 Stars',29],['1 Star',11],['Bomb',2]
['<=5.6',9],['5.7',24],['5.8',12],['5.9',17],['5.10',16],['5.11',2],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for First Creek Canyon:
Doobie Dance   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   Romper Room
Sunset Slab Direct   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 7 pitches, 1000'   First Creek Slabs
Romper Room   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   Romper Room
Dodgeball   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 6 pitches, 700'   Lotta Balls Wall
Lady Luck   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 7 pitches, 1000'   First Creek Slabs
Algae on Parade   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 3 pitches, 600'   Romper Room
Sunset Slab   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 7 pitches, 1000'   First Creek Slabs
Lotta Balls   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 3 pitches, 420'   Lotta Balls Wall
Hot Flash   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 10 pitches, 1200'   First Creek Slabs
Black Magic   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 4 pitches, 580'   Lotta Balls Wall
Bruja's Brew   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 4 pitches, 400'   Lotta Balls Wall
Lucky Nuts   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 110'   Mudterm Area
Pinball Crack   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 125'   Slot Club Wall
Coffin Corner   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 140'   The Schoolyard
Celtic Cracks   5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b R     Trad, 8 pitches, 1300'   Labyrinth Wall
Rob Roy   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 150'   Alcohol Wall
Honcho Imposter   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 115'   The Schoolyard
Gin Ricky   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 180'   Alcohol Wall
Mai Tai   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R     Trad, 1 pitch, 150'   Alcohol Wall
Straight Shot   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   Alcohol Wall
Browse More Classics in First Creek Canyon

Featured Route For First Creek Canyon
Andrew Gomoll styling the delicate moves of the Sh...

Celtic Cracks 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b NV : Red Rock : ... : Labyrinth Wall
This route is a beautiful line with a several spectacular pitches. The most notable is the shamrock roof pitch which goes out a huge roof. The pitches above the roof in the groove have similar rock and climbing feel as the wide pitches on Crimson Chrysalis minus the bolts. There are no bolts or fixed anchors on the route. The time to climb the route itself is probably an average grade III but with over 1000ft of approach pitches and a very involved descent you will probably be getting a grade...[more]   Browse More Classics in NV

Photos of First Creek Canyon Slideshow Add Photo
Cool rocks up First Creek.
Cool rocks up First Creek.
Another cool rock formation.
Another cool rock formation.
Has anyone else seen this rock on the hike up firs...
Has anyone else seen this rock on the hike up firs...
The view of First Creek Canyon by morning light fr...
The view of First Creek Canyon by morning light fr...
Waterfall on First Creek. August 2005.
Waterfall on First Creek. August 2005.
Nathan Fitzhugh and John Maynard heading into Firs...
Nathan Fitzhugh and John Maynard heading into Firs...
A Bighorn Sheep, and Lotta Balls Wall.  Taken 7/11...
A Bighorn Sheep, and Lotta Balls Wall. Taken 7/11...
Waterfall on First Creek. July 2007.
Waterfall on First Creek. July 2007.
A shot looking into the canyon from the approach. ...
A shot looking into the canyon from the approach. ...
Lotta Balls Wall, Alchohol Wall, Romper Room, Risi...
Lotta Balls Wall, Alchohol Wall, Romper Room, Risi...
South-facing aspects of First Creek Cny (southern ...
South-facing aspects of First Creek Cny (southern ...
Hiking to the Lotta Balls Wall- First Creek Canyon...
Hiking to the Lotta Balls Wall- First Creek Canyon...
First Creek Walls
BETA PHOTO: First Creek Walls
Looking north from the hike in.  Bridge Mtn and So...
Looking north from the hike in. Bridge Mtn and So...

Comments on First Creek Canyon Add Comment
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By Chris D
From: the couch
Feb 20, 2012
CONDITION REPORT 
Recovered a stuck rope today near rising moons. PM me if it's yours and I'll get it back to you.