First Creek is home to the excellent trad climbing on the Lotta Balls Wall. Since it is located outside the gated part of the RRNCA, climbers wanting an early start can have it here. The walk to the Lotta Balls Wall takes the better part of an hour. There are other routes deeper in the canyon, and this is also a good place to start for some of the big routes on the southern part of Mount Wilson.
Drive south on Route 159 from the area of the Visitor Center. Continue south past the exit from the scenic loop road for another two or three miles to the clearly marked First Creek Trailhead. Park here and follow the trail west into the mouth of the canyon.
Browse More Classics in First Creek Canyon
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for First Creek Canyon:
Featured Route For First Creek Canyon
Rob Roy 5.10b NV : Red Rock : ... : Alcohol Wall
Start 20 feet below and 15 feet left of a left facing corner system. Use the big cams you've been carrying in your pack for the belay anchor on this large, albeit exposed ledge. Move up the right trending features past the first bolt to a roof formed by the start of the left facing hanging corner. A blue alien protects the entry into this corner (somewhat spicy to and past this point, PG-13). Let the fun continue as you move up this left facing corner for the remainder of the pitch. Once es...[more] Browse More Classics in NV