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First Creek is home to the excellent trad climbing on the Lotta Balls Wall. Since it is located outside the gated part of the RRNCA, climbers wanting an early start can have it here. The walk to the Lotta Balls Wall takes the better part of an hour. There are other routes deeper in the canyon, and this is also a good place to start for some of the big routes on the southern part of Mount Wilson.
Drive south on Route 159 from the area of the Visitor Center. Continue south past the exit from the scenic loop road for another two or three miles to the clearly marked First Creek Trailhead. Park here and follow the trail west into the mouth of the canyon.
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Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for First Creek Canyon:
Featured Route For First Creek Canyon
Hot Flash 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c NV : Red Rock : ... : First Creek Slabs
This is a very nice route. The rock is good and the line is excellent. For the most part the moves are moderate, but the climb maintains a good level of interest the whole way.At the upstream end of the First Creek Slabs, scramble up to a good, brushy ledge on the western side of the Echove. Start here and climb a flake up and left to a good ledge. The next pitch moves up and right to a crack and a belay niche above a small overhang. The large overhang above is passed by a friction traverse...[more] Browse More Classics in NV
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