First Creek is home to the excellent trad climbing on the Lotta Balls Wall. Since it is located outside the gated part of the RRNCA, climbers wanting an early start can have it here. The walk to the Lotta Balls Wall takes the better part of an hour. There are other routes deeper in the canyon, and this is also a good place to start for some of the big routes on the southern part of Mount Wilson.
Drive south on Route 159 from the area of the Visitor Center. Continue south past the exit from the scenic loop road for another two or three miles to the clearly marked First Creek Trailhead. Park here and follow the trail west into the mouth of the canyon.
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Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for First Creek Canyon:
Featured Route For First Creek Canyon
Dodgeball 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b NV : Red Rock : ... : Lotta Balls Wall
This is a surprisingly good route that goes up a subtle line on the buttress to the left of Kick in the Balls. Because it starts at the base of the buttress, it is longer: about six pitches. The key feature is an aesthetic, left-facing, curvy corner with an alarmingly perched block halfway up.Start at an easy slab directly below this corner, and climb to a good ledge with a large bush on it. You could probably bypass this pitch with scrambling around to the left, but the climbing here provides a ...[more] Browse More Classics in NV
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