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First Creek is home to the excellent trad climbing on the Lotta Balls Wall. Since it is located outside the gated part of the RRNCA, climbers wanting an early start can have it here. The walk to the Lotta Balls Wall takes the better part of an hour. There are other routes deeper in the canyon, and this is also a good place to start for some of the big routes on the southern part of Mount Wilson.
Drive south on Route 159 from the area of the Visitor Center. Continue south past the exit from the scenic loop road for another two or three miles to the clearly marked First Creek Trailhead. Park here and follow the trail west into the mouth of the canyon.
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Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for First Creek Canyon:
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Return of the Jedi 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a NV : Red Rock : ... : The Schoolyard
Just to the right of Deja Vu, a thin crack wanders up the face. After the first few moves, the angle eases. There is now a rappel anchor near the top of the crack. A single-rope rap (60m works) will get you down. Alternatively, you can continue up and left, on lower quality rock, to a small ledge and rappel from the slung chockstone....[more] Browse More Classics in NV
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