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 ADVANCED
Mississippi Palisades
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Blank Face TR 
Crack-a-Toe-a T,TR 
Difficult Crack T,TR 
Double Overhang T,TR 
Ethos TR 
Face Off TR 
First Crack T,TR 
Java TR 
Knob Off TR 
Next To Nothing 12.a TR 
Nosey T,TR 
Over and Up TR 
Pretzel TR 
Pretzel Face TR 
Purgatorio 
Return Engagement TR 
Second Crack T,TR 
Sentinel Chimney T,TR 
Sentinel East Face T,TR 
Sentinel North Face TR 
Snaky T 
Third Crack TR 
Twin Cracks TR 
Up and Off TR 
Unsorted Routes:

First Crack 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 1,086
Submitted By: metrozen on Jun 12, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
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BETA PHOTO: 1st crack (5.6)

Description 

Crack and dihedral system to the right of Nosey.


Location 

First crack is past Nosey - at the east end of the cove.


Protection 

Toprope or scant pro. Anchors same as Nosey and Pretzel, maybe use a directional here.



Photos of First Crack Slideshow Add Photo
Chad at the anchors on First Crack.
Chad at the anchors on First Crack.
Comments on First Crack Add Comment
Show which comments
By Gary Taylor
Sep 26, 2009

The climb described between Nosey and Blank Wall is actually Second Crack aka Myrtle's Folly. About 5.5.

By Dave Goodell
Aug 17, 2011
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Ditto Gary's comments. The route description seems wrong, but the photo looks right to me. There's another photo of First Crack listed incorrectly as Second Crack here.

I thought this was a really fun trad lead. The upper two thirds of the climb takes stoppers really well, so you don't need a big rack to lead this one.

There are only three downsides that I see to the route. One is that there is a lot of small loose rock and dirt to knock down on your belayer if you're not careful. Another is that, like most all routes here, it's rather short. The last is that you can't realistically get any protection in until your feet are maybe 10 feet off the ground. There's a good spot for a mid-size cam (#.75 C4 maybe?) lower, but you'd have to extend the piece enough to get the rope around the bulge higher up that it wouldn't offer any real protection against decking. Instead just climb carefully until you can get a #3 C4 in above a block trapped in the crack maybe 15 feet off the ground. Just remind yourself that the holds are all pretty good and the climbing is easy.

If you really want to fuss more, you could probably put that smaller cam in not extended, clip it, put the #3 in higher, then down climb and back-clean the smaller cam to avoid the rope drag.

There are 3 bolts at the top for anchoring.