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(1) School Gate
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First Corner 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 85'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Unknown. Probable FFA: D. Chang
Page Views: 1,333
Submitted By: Tony B on Nov 10, 2009
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Anja on "First Corner" at School Gate.

Description 

An incredibly fun sport climb for any venue, and certainly one of the best here. This climb has a little of everything, overhanging jugs, slapping of aretes, hidden pockets, technical footwork, and if you stay belly to the bolts (harder) even some flaring jams. The grade will depend on how directly you do the route, but will be in the 5.11 range.
Climb up past 2 bolts to a technical crux, where a taller climber can clip the third bolt before risking it (be mindful of the rocks behind you). There are at least 2 fully distinct ways of doing the crux left or right, both of which are 5.11.
Continue up and over to a good rest, which is advised, then on up and left. Us a long sling at the bolt above the obvious flake (#5 maybe?) to avoid to drag or loading the biner and continue up and left to a spot about 1/2 way up were another route merges and there are 2 bolts side by side. Clip the left one and head directly up through the second crux (insecure jamming or slopers on a bulge, 5.11) or dodge it to the right by the right-most bolt and then back left to continue. A final pumpy crux (hard 5.10) comes just before intercepting the arete up and left, where a rest can be had... then head up and right on the overhanging face with pockets and a horizontal crack to clip the double anchors.


Location 

This climb is on the lowest point of the School Gate Rock, starting up out of the Gully on the North side of it's Northeast Arete.


Protection 

11 draws and a 2' sling to a 2-bolt anchor.



Photos of First Corner Slideshow Add Photo
First crux involves a long reach into an insecure flare.
First crux involves a long reach into an insecure ...
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By BrianWS
Apr 22, 2010

Generally climbable after short periods of rain due to the overhanging angle, but it turns into a regular algae-fest at the second crux if there has been prolonged rain in the area.
Original guidebook (Yama's) says 11.b with the arete on, maybe one or two letters harder if you go direct.
Hands down, this is my personal favorite climb in the whole area. Plus, it's the first climb you'll see upon entering from School Gate, a mere 5 minutes from the parking lots.