|Consensus:||YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]|
|Submitted By:||Tony B on Nov 10, 2009|
|Comments on First Corner||Add Comment|
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Apr 22, 2010
Generally climbable after short periods of rain due to the overhanging angle, but it turns into a regular algae-fest at the second crux if there has been prolonged rain in the area.
Original guidebook (Yama's) says 11.b with the arete on, maybe one or two letters harder if you go direct.
Hands down, this is my personal favorite climb in the whole area. Plus, it's the first climb you'll see upon entering from School Gate, a mere 5 minutes from the parking lots.
By Nate Ball
From: Taipei, TW
Sep 10, 2014
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
There are MANY ways to do this climb, and the grade should be considered with this in mind...
At the first crux, you can easily stem onto the wall behind you. If done without it, it's 11ish.
Just above the huge flake, you can continue traversing out right and pull jugs back left. You can also pull on a pebble and up to a large chunk. This is more direct, though adds a little more difficulty to the red-point. Maybe 10ish.
Where Above the Groove joins (two bolts side by side), you can step left onto the ledge. Getting back onto the route can be hairy, as you risk a fall onto the platform before you can reach around the arete to clip the next bolt. This allows for a big rest and skips one of the cruxier sections.
If you attempt to jam at the mid-crux, you will be making life very difficult for yourself. The rock here is sharp, flaring, and overhanging. Likely 12- but maybe harder.
The best way to do the mid-crux is to step right at the horizontal, get some jugs and move back up and left. This requires a specific sequence. 10ish.
You can plainly see that the original route followed the arete to the top anchors. This is probably the easiest finish, as there are good holds, though finding them can be difficult with a pump. The newer bolt is harder to clip from this position, and seems to indicate a line to the right, involving small pockets. Definitely harder.
If done with all the easy options, this is a two-star 11-.
If done with all the intuitive options, this is a four-star 11+.
If done with all the harder, more direct options, it's definitely 12ish.
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Sep 11, 2014
|The low crux is also pretty height dependent...|