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First climber to send .14?

Original Post
metrozen Geoffrion · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2008 · Points: 235

Just doing some blogging, and I wanted to get my facts straight - was it Gullich?

Thanks, all you crafty humans.

Tom Hanson · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 950

Roland Thompson sent 14's back in the '70s

Mikeco · · Highlands Ranch CO · Joined Apr 2008 · Points: 0

Me, in 1989. But, it was a 4.14.

Dan Dalton · · Boulder, CO · Joined Jul 2006 · Points: 1,465
metrozen wrote:Just doing some blogging, and I wanted to get my facts straight - was it Gullich? Thanks, all you crafty humans.
Gullich was the first to redpoint 14d, and it stays at that rating all these years later. Definately something amazing. This euro-mutant phenom would have easily put up 15s before Sharma had he not died on the auto-bahn.
Dpurf · · Superior · Joined Jan 2006 · Points: 435

Jean Baptiste Tribout made the first ascent of 'To Bolt or Not to Be' at Smith Rock. The first American 5.14 in 1986.

Monomaniac · · Morrison, CO · Joined Oct 2006 · Points: 17,295

Good luck getting a serious asnwer around here...

Gullich is generally recognized as establishing the world's first 5.14, Punks in the Gym, at Mt. Arapiles in Australia. This was circa 1985. Action Directe came much later (1991?)

Interestingly, the route is currently considered 13d, but there has been quite a bit of funny business. Apparently a british climber (who's name escapes me) spent many days working the route, and eventually manufactured a new hold to facilitate his ascent, later claiming that the manufactured hold replaced a hold that he broke. Someone else later tried to eradicate the manufactured hold, and so on, so its not clear how the route's current difficulty compares to the difficulty when Gullich climbed it.

SCherry · · Boulder, CO · Joined Jan 2006 · Points: 647

Scott Franklin first American to send 5.14 with Scarface at Smith. JB Tribout first to send 5.14 in America. First to send 5.14 in Europe?

Monomaniac · · Morrison, CO · Joined Oct 2006 · Points: 17,295
Sasha wrote:Scott Franklin first American to send 5.14 with Scarface at Smith. JB Tribout first to send 5.14 in America. First to send 5.14 in Europe?
In fact, Scott Franklin sent To Bolt or Not to Be prior to establishing Scarface. So he was the first American to send 5.14 with To Bolt, and the first to establish 5.14 with Scarface...although there is some debate about the grade of Scarface. Climbing did an interesting article about this a while back, and their conclusion was that the first absolutely undisputed 5.14 established by an American was Todd Skinner's "Throwin' the Houlihan" at Wild Iris. That didn't go up until 1990 or something, which is kind of amazing when you think about how long it took for us Americans to catch up to the rest of the world.
metrozen Geoffrion · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2008 · Points: 235

Thanks guys. I thought I might be opening a can of worms here, but I knew at least that it would be a can of super intelligent Ironman worms.

Much appreciated! :)

SCherry · · Boulder, CO · Joined Jan 2006 · Points: 647

Scarface and To Bolt or Not to Be are solid at the grade now (at least thats what the consensus says in the new Smith guide book)

I always thought there was never a debate about To Bolt (only Scarface which I think had a hold break and is now solid). If you have ever spied the line you would have no question, it looks solid and sick hard. The thing is over 150 feet long and no holds at dead vert.

Monomaniac · · Morrison, CO · Joined Oct 2006 · Points: 17,295
Sasha wrote:I always thought there was never a debate about To Bolt
Sasha, I didn;t mean to imply that there was a debate about To Bolt. To my knowledge, the grade has never been disputed (which is pretty amazing considering the pedigree: Tribout, Franklin, Moffat, Kauk, Watts, Engilkirk, Schneider, Lynn Hill, Sharma, Caldewll, Rodden...)

I was saying that all of the other 14a's ESTABLISHED BY AMERICANS had disputed grades, until Throwin the Houlihan.
LeeAB Brinckerhoff · · Austin, TX · Joined Aug 2008 · Points: 10,288

Sasha- Pretty sure Mono has spied To Bolt or Not To Be, and as far as I know Mono thinks that Scarface is solid as well, but that is something you'd have to ask him, he would know.

By the way, how are things going for you Mono?

Ken Cangi · · Eldorado Springs, CO · Joined Jul 2005 · Points: 620
Monomaniac wrote: Sasha, I didn;t mean to imply that there was a debate about To Bolt. To my knowledge, the grade has never been disputed (which is pretty amazing considering the pedigree: Tribout, Franklin, Moffat, Kauk, Watts, Engilkirk, Schneider, Lynn Hill, Sharma, Caldewll, Rodden...)
Chris Knuth also did To Bolt.
Monomaniac · · Morrison, CO · Joined Oct 2006 · Points: 17,295

Hey Lee, things are going really well. We've really been enjoying ourselves up here. How's the family? Let us know if you're ever in the area.

Monomaniac · · Morrison, CO · Joined Oct 2006 · Points: 17,295
WeBeJammon wrote:what about "throwin the houlihan" in wild iris. i think it might have been the first 14a to hold its grade in the U.S. by todd skinner.
Ya, I think I might of heard that somewhere.
Jonas Salk · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2008 · Points: 10
Marc Horan wrote: VOTE NO ON ACs
!!!!!
that is some funny shit!
hey metrozen,
you projectin 5.14's without me, you punk?
metrozen Geoffrion · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2008 · Points: 235

No way, homie! I'm projecting 14 .5's!! My dog is on belay - a really bad decision on my part, I might add. But your ass in Canadia or the District or some shee, so what else am I supposed to do?

Tony Brengosz · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2007 · Points: 2,386
Monomaniac · · Morrison, CO · Joined Oct 2006 · Points: 17,295
LeeAB wrote:Sasha- Pretty sure Mono has spied To Bolt or Not To Be, and as far as I know Mono thinks that Scarface is solid as well, but that is something you'd have to ask him, he would know. By the way, how are things going for you Mono?
Just to close the loop, I sent To Bolt or Not To Be today. IMO, solid at 14a. Harder than Scarface, but for me, not by much. They are pretty different in style. Scarface was really hard for me. Vertical crimps with small feet (To Bolt) is more up my alley.
Hank Caylor · · Livin' in the Junk! · Joined Dec 2003 · Points: 643
Monomaniac wrote:Good luck getting a serious asnwer around here... Gullich is generally recognized as establishing the world's first 5.14, Punks in the Gym, at Mt. Arapiles in Australia. This was circa 1985.
This would be my answer to the tee Mono.
Jay Knower · · Plymouth, NH; Lander, WY · Joined Jul 2001 · Points: 6,036
Monomaniac wrote: Just to close the loop, I sent To Bolt or Not To Be today. IMO, solid at 14a. Harder than Scarface, but for me, not by much. They are pretty different in style. Scarface was really hard for me. Vertical crimps with small feet (To Bolt) is more up my alley.
Congrats Mono! What a proud line. Certainly a proud send.
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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