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First Buttress

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Ben Dunne T 
Black Crack T 
Boomerang S 
Corner Pocket S 
Creature S 
Cross Eyed and Blind S 
Eye of Mordor S 
Floaters S 
Lady Punk S 
Lamda S 
Push S 
Sausage S 
Superman S 
Toymaker S 
Typical Situation S 
Vignette S 
West Virginia Two-Step S 

First Buttress 


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Administrators: Chris Whisenhunt, Ladd Raine, Shawn Heath, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Jeremy Steck on Jul 16, 2009
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Warming up on cross eyed and blind

Description 

This area is popular when it's raining....and when it's not. There are some very high quality routes here and if you're not content with these, it's only a short walk to the 2nd or 3rd buttress along the cliff.


Getting There 

The parking is the same for the Main Meadow area (pull off at the top of Underwood Road). From the pull off, hike down the ATV trail, heading left when the first option presents itself as rock begins to appear on the right. Follow this down to the bottom of the hill until you reach the old railroad bed. (If you make a left too early, it's OK, just follow another ATV trail that runs parallel to Route 19 and go under the bridge to reach the old railbed). Once you reach the river, head left, east of Route 19 along the railbed that runs along the Meadow River. Follow this for about 10-15 minutes from this point and keep an eye out for cairns on the left at a small path. Follow this path up the hill until you reach the cliff. The path should lead you directly to Push. If you miss the path you will notice a creepy looking shack on the right side of the old railbed that's covered in orange spray paint. If you see this, turn back or continue a short distance until you locate another set of cairns on the left at a path. This path will lead you to the 3rd buttress. You can walk left along the cliff to access the 2nd and 1st buttress.


Climbing Season


17 Total Routes


['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',11],['2 Stars',4],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',4],['5.11',1],['5.12',6],['5.13',6],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for First Buttress:
Ben Dunne   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   
Lady Punk   5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 80'   
Cross Eyed and Blind   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   
Floaters   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   
Push   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   
Lamda   5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a     Sport, 90'   
Creature   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
Eye of Mordor   5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c     Sport, Chipped, 90'   
Boomerang   5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   
Corner Pocket   5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c     Sport, 90'   
Browse More Classics in First Buttress

Featured Route For First Buttress
Fred Gomez warming up on Push

Push 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a  WV : The New River Gorge : ... : First Buttress
This route is classic! It's worth coming to this crag for this route alone! Start by climbing up a blocky section of rock to reach the first bolt. From here, climb straight up making some tricky moves to reach the obvious hueco at the 4th bolt. Next, make a traverse right for about 6 feet to reach a vertical seam and eventually a really good stance. Continue up and then make a long easy traverse back left to clip the 5th bolt. It looks a bit run out, but it's a clean fall and the hard...[more]   Browse More Classics in WV

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