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First Buttress

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Haulage, The S 
Magnatude S 
Oh it's you Bob S 
Sanctified S 
Tantrum, The S 
Tarbaby S 
World's Hardest Five Twelve, The S 
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First Buttress  


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Page Views: 1,208
Administrators: Chris Whisenhunt, Ladd Raine, Shawn Heath, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Ladd Raine on May 18, 2007
Forecast:
Mon Tue Wed Thu Fri
Chance of Rain
54° | 37°
Clear
66° | 34°
Partly Cloudy
60° | 42°
Chance of Rain
74° | 58°
Thunderstorm
67° | 42°
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Description 

5.12s and 5.13s, sport area.

Come here on a rainy day in the summer, it is cool and stays pretty dry.

Come here on a hot day in the summer, enjoy the cool breeze, shade and lovey hard lines.

Really a cool crag for progecting in the hot summer months.

Classics include The World's Hardest Five Twelve (5.12a), The World's Hardest Variation (5.12c/d), Sanctified (5.13a), Magnitude (5.11d/12a), and more...

Getting There 

From the Glory Hole head down the old coal trail until you see step heading west (up and to the left). First Buttress is the first one you come upon.

Climbing Season



Weather station 5.8 miles from here

7 Total Routes

['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',5],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',0],['5.11',2],['5.12',5],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for First Buttress:
Oh it's you Bob   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 70'   
Magnatude   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   
The World's Hardest Five Twelve   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 60'   
Sanctified   5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   
Browse More Classics in First Buttress

Featured Route For First Buttress

The Tantrum 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b  WV : The New River Gorge : ... : First Buttress
Tantrum has the wildest moves of any of the routes that breach the roof of the first buttress. The rock quality is good and the majority of the holds are jugs and slopers. Begin by flowing through fun moves to the second bolt. Just after this section donít get blindsided by a difficult deadpoint to a sloper. Move with ease to the base of the 10' roof and then rail out the roof on a series of good plates. Use some aggressive footwork to reach a large undercling crack near the lip of the roof...[more]   Browse More Classics in WV

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