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First Buttress

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Haulage, The S 
Magnatude S 
Oh it's you Bob S 
Sanctified S 
Tantrum, The S 
Tarbaby S 
World's Hardest Five Twelve, The S 

First Buttress  


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Administrators: Chris Whisenhunt, Ladd Raine, Shawn Heath, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Ladd Raine on May 18, 2007
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Description 

5.12s and 5.13s, sport area.

Come here on a rainy day in the summer, it is cool and stays pretty dry.

Come here on a hot day in the summer, enjoy the cool breeze, shade and lovey hard lines.

Really a cool crag for progecting in the hot summer months.

Classics include The World's Hardest Five Twelve (5.12a), The World's Hardest Variation (5.12c/d), Sanctified (5.13a), Magnitude (5.11d/12a), and more...

Getting There 

From the Glory Hole head down the old coal trail until you see step heading west (up and to the left). First Buttress is the first one you come upon.

Climbing Season



Weather station 5.8 miles from here

7 Total Routes

['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',5],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',0],['5.11',2],['5.12',5],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for First Buttress:
Oh it's you Bob   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 70'   
Magnatude   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   
The World's Hardest Five Twelve   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 60'   
Browse More Classics in First Buttress

Featured Route For First Buttress

Sanctified 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b  WV : The New River Gorge : ... : First Buttress
Stick clip the first bolt and then climb out a roof on good jugs to some minor difficulties turning the lip. Rest up on some jugs and then make some easy moves up to the fifth bolt. Clip the fifth bolt from some perfectly sculpted hand sized jugs and then move into the business.The crux boulder problem features some unforgiving crimps on very steep terrain. There is no way to weasel your way around this crux. Bring finger strength and a boulderer's mentality if you hope to have any success o...[more]   Browse More Classics in WV

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