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First Buttress South

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First Buttress South  


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Location: 51.16966, -4.67768 View Map  Incorrect?
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Administrators: Chris Owen, Euan Cameron, Nick Russell, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: CrimperE6 on Oct 28, 2012
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Description 

part tidal granite sea cliff

Getting There 

For all the cliffs in the southern half of the bay; locate a shallow valley at plateau level, which sometimes has a small stream running down it. This is just off the coastal path and some 300 metres north of the Old Light. Descend the volley and continue down a broad grassy spur to reach on area of Iarge blocks approximately 70 metres above sea level. A 70-metre abseil from
good block belays leads down a sleep grassy slope on the northern side of the spur into the brood, open gully beneath First Buttress North. It is also possible to scramble down this approach with extreme caution.

Climbing Season



Weather station 13.0 miles from here

3 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',1],['5.9',1],['5.10',1],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]


Featured Route For First Buttress South
start of the crack system

The Indy 500 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a  Europe : United Kingdom : ... : First Buttress South
An excellent, sustained crack climb which builds to a tricky finale. Protection is ideal throughout, but don't hang around too long placing it. Although the wall looks to be covered in lichen from the bottom, the line of the route is clean.P1, 40m, 5b.Start at the base of the large, vegetated corner, which is followed for about 10m to reach a crack on the left wall. Climb a short way up the crack until it is necessary to step left into a second crack. Follow this steeply through a bulge to a dec...[more]   Browse More Classics in International

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