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first buttress south

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first buttress south 

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Administrators: Chris Owen, Euan Cameron, Nick Russell, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: CrimperE6 on Oct 28, 2012
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part tidal granite sea cliff

Getting There 

For all the cliffs in the southern half of the bay; locate a shallow valley at plateau level, which sometimes has a small stream running down it. This is just off the coastal path and some 300 metres north of the Old Light. Descend the volley and continue down a broad grassy spur to reach on area of Iarge blocks approximately 70 metres above sea level. A 70-metre abseil from
good block belays leads down a sleep grassy slope on the northern side of the spur into the brood, open gully beneath First Buttress North. It is also possible to scramble down this approach with extreme caution.

3 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]

Featured Route For first buttress south
start of the crack system

The Indy 500 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a  Europe : United Kingdom : ... : first buttress south
Start beneath the Iarge corner. Climb the corner for 14 metres to reach the bose of the vertical crockline in the left wall (belay possible). Climb the crack for 7 metres and, where it veers right, step left into a thinner vertical crack. Follow this, steeply at first but with good face holds, to a ledge. Continue up the rightward-slanting continuation crock, using face holds on the right, to the final headwall. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in International

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