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Orc Wall
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First Blood TR 
First Blood Part II (Shoshin) T,TR 
Lumberjack Crack T,TR 
twinkle toes TR 

First Blood Part II (Shoshin) 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 45'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: 
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 352
Submitted By: Pete Hunt on May 12, 2012

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BETA PHOTO: First Blood Part II

Description 

Just south of First Blood lies a large block looming overhead at the top of the cliff. Start on a corner and climb straight up under the large block, following an intermittent crack system as you go. Make use of the tricky holds in the shallow dihedral (crux) and if you're still hanging on after that, find reprieve from the big buckets under the roof. Finish by going left and up.

Note: The buckets mentioned above are part of a large detached chunk of stone. I kicked at this hard on rappel and couldn't even make it move, but use caution.


Protection 

Long anchoring materials are helpful for setting up a TR. You can probably get by without any artificial pro due to the large amount of boulders and trees scattered at the top.

This would likely be a poor lead due to lack of protection from what I remember, but feel free to look for placements.



Comments on First Blood Part II (Shoshin) Add Comment
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By Doug Lintz
From: Kearney, NE
May 21, 2014

So who's the idiot that put a bolt in the middle of the slab section half-way up this route?

By Pete Hunt
Jun 6, 2014

Whoa, really? That's unfortunate. Bolting is not allowed at Blue Mounds and to my knowledge that is the first one in the whole park (not for you Doug obviously but to new visitors of the area.)

By Pete Hunt
Jun 13, 2014

Here are pics of the said bolt. At least it's in a spot that as far as I remember was previously unprotectable.

Bolt zoomed in
Bolt zoomed in


Bolt zoomed out
Bolt zoomed out

By Doug Lintz
From: Kearney, NE
Jun 14, 2014

Pete, that section did look unprotectable which is probably why someone thought it needed a bolt. My friend and I didn't climb the route, we just noticed it as we were checking out some others routes.
I'm not sure if any of the park staff is knowledgeable about bolts (or if any of them even climb) but hopefully this is an isolated incident and won't affect climbing access. That said, the bolt should be removed as soon as possible. I'll gladly do it if I get back up there this year.

By Pete Hunt
Jun 22, 2014

Right on Doug, I agree that it should be pulled. Kinda weird how it just popped up on a relatively low traffic route. I'll keep my eye out for any other bolts being added to the area but my guess is it will be an "isolated incident" as you put it.