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Bowling for Buicks 
Dagger, The 
First Best 
Generation X 
Guide Route 
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Soft in the Middle 
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Standard Route 
Thing In Between 
Tigger 
Top Heavy 

First Best 

5.10-

   
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Type: Trad, 1 pitch, 70 feet
Consensus: 5.10- [details]
FA: Pat Callis, Brian Leo, Steve White, 70s?
Submitted By: Nick Stayner on Apr 6, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (25)
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Description 

Another classic pitch, one of the best cracks in GC.
p1- Facey moves bring you to a bulge Drop a small nut in a crack above, pull moves, clip a pin, and rally up the corner to a ledge. 70', .10-


Location 

The great-looking corner right of the Standard Route. P1 ends at a rap anchor shared with Thing in Between and Tigger. Single rope rap here or continue up Tigger/variations to the top.


Protection 

Singles, from small to a #2 camalot. My foggy memory seems to recall a possible #3 camalot placement near the top of the corner, but I can't say for sure.



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By Erik the Awful
From: Bozeman
Jul 23, 2009

There is no longer a fixed pin on this route.

By W.S.
From: Montana
May 31, 2010
rating: 5.10-

There is no longer a fixed pin, but if you hurry you might find a stuck TCU about a third of the way up. Not ours, and we didn't succeed in getting it out. Great climb. Like the description says, there is a possible #3 placement towards the top, but it's not necessary because that's the easiest part and there are other options for pro.

By Ty Morrison-Heath
From: Bozeman, MT
Apr 22, 2012

Fun climb! A little stressful getting off the ground. The crux is at the bottom above the talus that you are going to hit if you blow it. A couple of nut placements were very key to doing this climb safely.