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First Ascent or No Big Deal
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By Aaron James Parlier
Administrator
From Boone, NC / Grayson, VA
Dec 30, 2012
"The Truth" Project, GHSP

I would like to get a few opinions on this just out of curiosity, thanks for any help on the subject!

The area I climb at here in the southeast is a relatively new one but rapidly growing in popularity. A really beautiful line, one of the best in the area, was first climbed by a friend of mine in 2010 and several months later the large flake starting hold busted completely off (also removing a key foot further along in the sequence). The line was originally a V7 and it was an open project for 2 years until it was sent this past summer, 2012. It is now a hard V8 or 9.

The line has changed significantly in the way that it is climbed, and it is much more difficult, but overall it is the same line. No name change or anything, just harder.

Would this necessitate the line having a new "First Ascent" or not? I think the situation is interesting and polarized. This isnít a route or some prestigious mountaineering ascent, just a popular boulder problem. Some thoughts would be appreciated!


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By shotwell
Dec 30, 2012

Aaron James Parlier wrote:
I would like to get a few opinions on this just out of curiosity, thanks for any help on the subject! The area I climb at here in the southeast is a relatively new one but rapidly growing in popularity. A really beautiful line, one of the best in the area, was first climbed by a friend of mine in 2010 and several months later the large flake starting hold busted completely off (also removing a key foot further along in the sequence). The line was originally a V7 and it was an open project for 2 years until it was sent this past summer, 2012. It is now a hard V8 or 9. The line has changed significantly in the way that it is climbed, and it is much more difficult, but overall it is the same line. No name change or anything, just harder. Would this necessitate the line having a new "First Ascent" or not? I think the situation is interesting and polarized. This isnít a route or some prestigious mountaineering ascent, just a popular boulder problem. Some thoughts would be appreciated!


An FA both times, but hardly matters. A brief mention of what happened in the guide is probably the best bet. See Slunk in the Bishop guidebook for a good way of handling this (though the FA isn't listed.)


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By Aaron James Parlier
Administrator
From Boone, NC / Grayson, VA
Dec 30, 2012
"The Truth" Project, GHSP

I know its hardly worth the mentioning overall, but it is an interesting topic nonetheless. I'm not listing either ascent in the guide but wanted to know some general thoughts from on it. Thanks!


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By Brad Caldwell
From Deep in the Jocassee Gorges
Jan 1, 2013

I kind of think you should mention both and the situation you desribed..."the original line was sent by --- and was graded a V7, but a key hold has broken off since then and the new version of the problem was sent by ---and graded a V8/9". I think its worth a mention for history sake and so nobody feels jilted by the info being omitted. Just my 2Ę as a developer and guidebook author:)


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By ze_dirtbag
From TBD
Jan 1, 2013
cottonmouth

where are you climbing?


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By Aaron James Parlier
Administrator
From Boone, NC / Grayson, VA
Jan 2, 2013
"The Truth" Project, GHSP

Thanks everyone! Agreed on all replies. Nice to hear from you Brad, its been a while. Cruxslayer, Iím climbing in a little area in VA. You have a ton of good climbing near you, enjoy it!


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